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HATCHBOX

HATCHBOX PETG 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Blue

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Color: Blue


Features

  • 1KG (approximately 2.2 lbs) Spool
  • PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol-Modified) 3D Printer Filament Vacuumed Sealed With Desiccant
  • Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature 230C - 260C (446F - 500F)
  • 1.75mm Filament Diameter (Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm)
  • Spool Diameter: 8" - Spool Width: 2.50" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 1.25"

Description

HATCHBOX PETG Blue Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol- modified filament is a fine alternative to PLA and ABS, due to its toughness, clarity, and stiffness. Print over a wider range of conditions and enjoy increased durability at a lighter weight. Read more Features & Benefits Tech Spec Each package of PETG Blue contains a 1 kg (~2.20 lbs) spool at 1.75 mm filament diameter with a dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.03 mm). We recommend printing at a nozzle temperature of 230°C - 260°C (446°F - 500°F) Multi-Use Make more than just models with 3D printing! Design and bring to life your inventions and other functional pieces for use in everyday applications like custom phone cases, wallets, salt shakers, sculptures, candle holders, dog tags and tons more. The sky's the limit! Your creativity begins with Hatchbox filament. Performance PETG is the ideal polymer for lightweight but durable models and prototypes. Enjoy easy adherence to the print bed, very low odor, high detail resolution, and smooth, glossy finishes on all of your prints. Innovation At Hatchbox, we are proud to provide the tools you need to innovate in life and in work whether a seasoned printer or just starting out. We help you push your ideas forward with the best in 3D printing materials so you can make your designs a reality. Read more Why HATCHBOX? Quality Hatchbox 3D filaments are loved by the printing community for their high-quality composition, offering clog, bubble and tangle-free printing. Every spool is assured to offer the highest caliber of performance possible. That’s the Hatchbox promise. Materials No matter what your latest project calls for, we have a filament to suit any need, from heat resistance and durability, to flexibility and odorless extrusion. Our exhaustive catalog provides the choices you want to help you get the job done quickly and easily. Colors One of the most important factors of any print comes down to color. Hatchbox 3D colors are bold and vibrant. Mix and match bright primaries and nuanced hues with gloss, textured, sparkle, transparent, and even wood and marble-mimicking filaments. Reliability Trust all of your prints to Hatchbox! We strive to make 3D printing an enjoyable and error-free process for our customers. That’s why each filament is carefully formulated and thoroughly tested to save you time and effort every time you print. Read more ABS 3D Pen Filament 16 Color Sample Pack ABS 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Gray PLA Silk 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Mint ABS 3D Pen Filament 12 Color Sample Pack PLA 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Red PLA Silk 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Sliver Filament Type ABS ABS PLA ABS PLA PLA Diameter 1.75mm 1.75mm 1.75mm 1.75mm 1.75mm 1.75mm Color 16 Color Sample Pack Gray Silk Mint 12 Color Sample Pack Red Silk Silver Benefits Prints at Higher Temperatures | Durable Prints at Higher Temperatures | Durable Less Warping | No Heating Bed Required Prints at Higher Temperatures | Durable Less Warping | No Heating Bed Required Less Warping | No Heating Bed Required


Manufacturer: HATCHBOX


Brand: HATCHBOX


Item Weight: 2.2 pounds


Product Dimensions: 8.27 x 9.45 x 3.15 inches


Item model number: 3D PETG-1KG1.75-BLU


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No


Color: Blue


Material Type: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol


Number of Items: 1


Manufacturer Part Number: 3D PETG-1KG1.75-BLU


Date First Available: September 3, 2015


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Top Amazon Reviews

    • PETG Guide: Tips from an industrial designer
Color: Orange
I've experienced all of the problems negative reviewers have mentioned (except bad spooling)... Until I learned why. Now it prints as easy as PLA, and strong enough that I bent a sturdy pair of hardened steel pliers while trying to remove supports after I screwed up my settings. My parts are in use on industrial clients' production lines, even ones that produce Amazon's boxes and some of the products you might use every day. Every product I produce impresses the engineers using them. This material likely helped produce some of the stuff sitting around you right now. Here are some pointers, but you really need to learn about the chemistry in-depth to fully understand it. Part Cooling: PETG does not like cooling, even with fast layer times. It may fail to adhere layers, especially single wall prints. with exceptions. If the area is very thick (solid, lots of walls, etc.) then you're going to need cooling but keep it moderate. With a stock Ender 3 part fan and a ring adapter or a Hero Me Gen3 with the stock fan, about 70-80% works but I only used it where necessary on the model. Using a Hero Me Gen4 Dual 5015 I set about 30-40%. PTFE Melting: I'm not sure why people say they have problems here, but I built an Ender 3 Q42018 model and printed for 2 years with the stock Bowden without any issues... The end of my stock white PTFE tube is just fine, even after testing at up to 260C using the stock hotend. Consistency: I have yet to find a deviation greater than 0.02mm on any roll of any Hatchbox material. YMMV, but that's _why_ I buy Hatchbox. I've never found any contaminants, changes in dye colors, kinks, bubbles, or other defects. Tangling: I think what is going on there in most cases is probably that this stuff is stiff and springy. If you don't have some strain relief between the spool and the extruder, or the spool can rotate too freely, you might feed back onto the roll and make a mess or cause it to spring loose on the roll and tangle from overlaps. I've never received a spool of any material from Hatchbox that was looped over itself and inherently tangled. In fact, with the way the filament is spooled at the plant, I don't think that it is physically possible for it to become knotted... Nozzle Temperature: Here's the finicky one. This setting is critical, and part dependent. Too much heat and you'll get strings and oozing like crazy. Too little, it'll drag and fail to adhere to the bed and other layers. What is too much/little? That depends... I only get good results with 230-245C nozzle temps for detailed parts on a 0.2 - 0.4 mm nozzle. 235C works great for slow speed 1mm nozzle prints, and I use 245C for faster ones. Over 245C makes it ooze badly in addition to becoming brittle and prone to shattering into razor-sharp shards. You can play with temps and cooling to get more flex or rigidity though, which can be pretty handy. If you work to minimize retraction in your gcode, switch to direct drive, print in vase mode, or use linear advance you can get away with 220-230C without much fuss, but you have to stop the part cooling. Higher temps are better for a small nozzle and a model with fewer surface details. Nozzleschmutz: A buildup of excess material on the outer surface of the nozzle can burn and leave black bits on the model or just drag around until it scrapes off, ruining the surface of your print. This is caused (easily) by extruder calibration, Z calibration, unlevel beds, or too high of print speeds. Turn your speed down a bit. It will not print infill well at 235C over 60mm/s. PETG is too viscous and will drag behind the nozzle instead of laying down, and those speeds don't radiate enough heat to strongly bond the current layer to the previous one. A BLTouch, a glass bed, antibacklash nuts, and stronger bed springs all helped with this issue, but getting the E steps dialed in was critical. If you just change the temps on your PLA profile and print, you will have problems. Linear Advance works great but getting your K factor correct can be a challenge due to bed adhesion and the speed at which the LA test pattern prints. See 'Bed Adhesion' (next). Bed Adhesion: Use polyester/polyurethane blended hairspray on glass. The default Ender build plate material works pretty well, but not as good. Your bed needs to be really flat or compensated by high resolution UBL meshes. The carriage must be trammed well and preferably square wrt the frame. I spray 91% IPA on the glass, then hairspray, then heat it gently to set the film. The IPA helps get a clean and smooth layer on the glass instead of uneven speckles from the spray nozzle. Make sure your bed temperature is BELOW the glass transition temperature! There are a lot of reports out there about glass cracking/chipping and PEI being destroyed when you don't do this. If you follow this rule and _let the part cool before attempting to remove it_, the part will release itself with no effort around 35-40C., You'll hear a 'tink' as it pops free. Print the first 2 layers at no more than 20mm/s for consistent results. If you must use bare glass, use tempered glass and clean it to the point of being completely free of oils, IPA denaturing agents, anything which isn't glass. Print the first 2 layers at 10mm/s and avoid tight radii, backtracking, or sharp angles. PETG will stick to completely clean and smooth plates, but not strongly enough to survive a nozzle collision or very hard jarring from bed deceleration. Using brims may help. I've heard 50/50% water and Elmer's Glue All works well, but I haven't needed to try that yet. Bubbles, popping sounds: PETG is very hygroscopic, meaning it will readily absorb atmospheric moisture. You can't load this on an exposed spool holder and leave it for days. For long term storage, I place spools in a bucket with a gasket on the lid (Home Depot orange bucket) with silica crystal cat litter in the bottom. Silica dust from the coarsely ground litter can get on your filament, so watch out for that. I used a sewing machine and Velcro to make a fabric sack to contain the silica. To recharge silica desiccant, bake in an oven at around 180C for 30-60 minutes to drive off moisture, and as soon as it is cool enough, put it in the bucket and seal it again. I've just finished a roll I've had open for over 2 years which has absorbed moisture many times, and my last prints were great in terms of printing, strength, color, and finish. This isn't a problem with Hatchbox filaments, but a natural chemical property of this polymer. I can tell you from working with industrial facilities, vacuum packing or even wrapping round objects like spools is very difficult and they might leak, that's just the nature of the technology used in packaging equipment. I've never received an unsealed spool from Hatchbox, but it wouldn't disappoint me. Just handle it gently to avoid cracking it, dry it out, and it'll be fine. Desiccant drying times range from hours to days depending on exposure. One thing I have noticed is that the spools have all been wound very neatly and the unexposed parts absorb little moisture, so if you're reeeaaally in a hurry, you can unwind a couple of layers of the spool, snip it, and print with the more fresh filament beneath it. Better still, just mount your currently used filament in a container with desiccant using a foam port to keep out more humid air and wipe any dust from the material as it feeds. Try to pick a foam with a low dielectric coefficient wrt PETG so you don't cause a static electric charge to build up and attract new dust to the filament. Stringing: If your retraction is wrong, nozzle temperature is too low/high, hydrolysis has occurred, or your print speed is too high, you will certainly see the spaghetti monster soon. This stuff can string like crazy, but when you're dialed in that all goes away. You'll know you've got a good profile set up when it behaves almost like PLA instead of glue. I didn't believe this until I saw it, I thought this was just a horrible material in terms of stringiness. The roll I just finished was the same roll I calibrated with 2 years ago. It was nothing but a non-bed-adhering, stringy, goopy, crappy mess for the first month of trial and error, my last print was gorgeous. It's not hard to print with, but it is hard to build a profile for and your settings may depend on the model a little. Warping: PETG, like many materials, expands and contracts substantially with changes in temperature. Judicious use of part cooling can keep this to a minimum on overhanging areas which might curl up otherwise, but too much will just cause weak layer adhesion. A warm build area (i.e., heated enclosure) will reduce this a lot. The problem isn't anywhere near what you might see with most ABS filaments, but it can make printing some parts difficult. Plan ahead, have supporting ribs or infill which help the part hold its geometry, and avoid steep (>70 degrees) unsupported overhangs. It took many tries to get a successful print of some belt tensioners without the last 2 cm curling up badly and causing the part to be knocked from the build plate by the nozzle. Once I reduced my print speed, lowered my nozzle temp to 230, closed the A/C register in the room, and set 30% part cooling fan during the last of the overhanging arch, everything went smoothly but it was frustrating for a few days while I figured it out. An enclosure would have solved it I think. Multimaterial Printing: Well, you will learn that almost nothing sticks to PETG very well. You can print TPU onto it while it's hot and get a decent bond but not as strong as pure PETG parts. Slow down the interface layers to allow heat to flow from the nozzle into the PETG below. Friction fits, mechanical fasteners, or adhesives may be a better way to go. Layer Bonding: Strong parts become very weak if you cool them too much during printing or take too long per layer at too low a temperature. Print one part at a time, low/no fan, and slow it down a little. Infill: Print infill at the same speed you print walls if you want it strong. If you don't need much strength in the infill, just support, then faster speeds may be fine. Supports: Unless you utilize thermal tricks like setting high part cooling on your support roofs or increased gaps at interfaces, you will likely have a very hard time removing support material and achieving a nice finish. Once it bonds, it can become solid to the point that you need power tools to remove the supports... Be careful removing material, this stuff can fracture and leave dangerously sharp edges or violently release glass-like shards. Eye protection and gloves wouldn't be a bad idea. Use Cases: I've got wheels carrying 1200 Lb dynamic loads, hundreds of tons of material sliding across air conveyor nozzles made from PETG, grips for machetes and other tools, and heat-exposed printer parts which are all functioning extremely well. PETG has great abrasion resistance, impact resistance, tensile strength, and chemical resistance. Its thermal stability is very good for a material that extrudes at such a low temperature. I've also got replacement auto parts in service that are doing just fine in Texas temperatures. This stuff is my main money-maker and go-to material, I don't even keep any PLA in stock. General Notes and Safety: Short of printing PEEK, Acetal, or Polycarbonate, this is about as easy, strong, and versatile a material as you'll find to print with. Hatchbox filament doesn't seem to have any additives like compatabilizers or stabilizers which create noxious fumes, but I've read studies that suggest that VOCs can build up in a small unventilated space with longer prints. If you notice a mild flowery or sweet smell, you might want to increase ventilation or dilution (circulate the air). Wiping the outside of the nozzle with a lint-free cloth dampened with an oil that has a smoke temperature above the nozzle temperature may help prevent accumulated material from degrading, but ultimately you've got a layer height or extrusion amount miscalibration which must be addressed if that happens. I've read about olive oil and such, but some of these can denature and become toxic or carcinogenic above smoke temperature so I don't do that. This stuff really can shatter like glass, I'm not exaggerating... Wear safety gear if you think this might be a risk, and beware of shards in work areas. Bystanders, including pets, should stay well back while applying force to remove supports or test part strength. My personal test of PETG-worthiness has been to first get the machine to where it can produce PLA print-in-place racer bearings without binding, underextrusion, or overextrusion. Then I build the PETG profile by checking extruder hobbed gear tension, measuring extruder steps per mm, printing temperature towers, printing retraction tests, testing cooling settings for overhangs, and finally part fitting tests with zero tolerances. Once you get your machine and settings calibrated, PETG can be a very rewarding material with incredible qualities. So now you know more about PETG than most users, and your chances of success should be much higher. Don't get discouraged, just remember that PLA filaments are designed to be "idiot-proof" and tolerant of faults in machine calibration, but PETG is a serious material requiring knowledge to extrude correctly. Hyperbolic statements such as "This brand SUCKS" tell you that the individual doesn't understand the material, their machine, or both, so keep at it and soon you'll be amazing your clients and changing their perception of FDM machines. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 1, 2020 by James D.
    • Great orange, but not Prusa Orange.
Color: Orange
Good filament, prints exactly as you would expect. However despite some reports I had read, it isn't nearly as intense as Prusa's Orange, if that is what you are after.
Reviewed in the United States on February 27, 2018 by Moon Dog
    • Disappointed...Orange PETG
Color: Orange
I'm really disappointed with this filament. I ordered both black and orange rolls of PETG. The black was fine, but the orange is terrible. First the roll is very poorly rolled, lots of overlapping, causing filament to get tangled coming off the roll, as the print goes on. Second, I've had quite a few "chunks" come out in the prints, creating poor print results. I'll leave a positive review on the black, but I'm really not happy with the orange. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 6, 2018 by seu0301
    • Hatchbox just works
Color: Black
I've printed with Hatchbox PLA since I purchased my Printrbot Simple Metal in 2014. I've always been happy with the quality of the filament and ability to simply print spool after spool without having to tweak settings between them. The same can been said for Hatchbox's PETG. From the very first print I have had no issues with adhesion to my Prusa I3 MK3 PEI bed. This is a similar experience to using Prusa's own Prusament and was a pleasant surprise. When I have used both Amazon Basics and ESun filaments I have had some difficulty with the 1st layer adhering to the PEI bed to the point I've had to slow the machine down to 5 mm/s and increase printing temperature to >240C to get a decent first layer. Hatchbox has been able to print reliably at 10 mm/s on the first layer with no need to stop or restart prints. I've also been able to print at 225C with no change in print or adherence quality. Overall, still a satisfied Hatchbox customer. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2019 by Mark Hogan
    • Good value for a versatile filament
Color: White
After trying a different brand of PETG, I almost gave up on this type of filament ... but the internet descriptions of the advantages of PETG persuaded me to give it another try. This time I tried the brand I should have started with - I have had consistently good results with the other Hatchbox filaments that I have used (PLA and ABS), and now I have fallen in love with their PETG as well. The prints are very strong with no discernable warping, and with the Hatchbox brand I have not had any problems with jamming or stuttering. Adhesion to the 70 ° heated bed is excellent with a layer of glue stick, and though it takes a bit of persuasion, the prints release cleanly. PETG does require relatively high print temperatures, so it is best suited to an all-metal hot-end. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2018 by Andrew H. Wakefield
    • Nice color, minimal smell, and prints on my Prusa i3 MK2S Clone. More difficult to print than PLA though.
Color: Orange
Got this on a same day order! Thanks Amazon! First time printing PETG on my Prusa i3 MK2S Clone. So far, I found printing on Kapton tape, nozzle temp=245C with bed temp=70C works for me. The Kapton tape was critical for me. No raft, no brim, .2mm with 20% infill on a .4mm nozzle. First layer adhesion was great, but approx 5-6mm of layer height later, I noticed slight contraction/curling at the edges of my 3" x 4" part. Not sure if room temp/humidity was a factor, but it is winter here and the room the printer is in is about 67 deg F with 30-35% humidity; which had not been a problem for PLA. Worth noting, Blue tape method has been my primary print method using PLA, so I initially tried printing with PETG on 3M blue painters tape and proved unsuccessful. PET adhesion was NO good at all with blue tape. I tried all sorts of temps and cleaning before bringing out the Kapton tape. I will also try PEI film later but just built my i3 printer and didn't want to ruin the PEI due to trial-n-errors in setup. Overall, PETG is more difficult to print than PLA from a adhesion standpoint. Love the orange color. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 19, 2017 by Dragon_dude

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