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Draw-Tite

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Class III, 2 in. Receiver, Compatible with Select Hyundai Santa Fe

    • Based on 6,550 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: 20 left in stock
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Tuesday, Apr 29
Order within 7 hours and 16 minutes
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Style: Hyundai Santa Fe XL/ GLS/ SE


Features

  • Round Tube Max-Frame receivers are designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
  • 2" Square Receiver Tube Opening
  • Rated Weight Carrying Capacity 5000 pounds (GTW), Weight Distributing Capacity 7500 pounds (GTW)
  • All-Frame Attachment, Solid All-Welded Construction, with A-Coat Base with Black Powder Coat Finish.Material:Steel
  • Custom Built According to Manufacturer and Model Year Ensures Perfect Fit and Top Towing Performance
  • VEHICLE COMPATIBILITY:2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL,2013-2015 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and Limited,2016-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe SE and Limited
  • only fits sport models of Hyundai Santa Fe

Description

Draw-Tite offers the Max-Frame Class III/IV line of Round Tube Receivers, designed to complement today's trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles. These stylish trailer hitches complement your vehicle's rugged good looks and blend elegantly into its overall appearance. Their all-frame attachment and A-Coat base/black powder coat finish ensure that they will retain their attractive appearance for years to come. The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Class III/IV receiver boasts solid welded construction for maximum strength and durability. Computer Aided Design (CAD) ensures a perfect fit for your vehicle; every Max-Frame is custom built according to manufacturer and model-year specifications. The Max- Frame Class III/IV is rated at up to 8,000 pounds. Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) weight carrying (WC) and up to 12,000 pounds. Gross Trailer Weight GTW) with weight distributing (WC). Easy, bolt-on installation with no welding required. Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included. Backed by Draw- Tite's nationwide limited lifetime warranty.

Brand: Draw-Tite


Item Weight: 32 Pounds


Vehicle Service Type: Van, Sport-Utility-Vehicles, Truck, Trailer


Material: Alloy Steel


Finish Type: Powder Coated


Brand: ‎Draw-Tite


Item Weight: ‎32 Pounds


Vehicle Service Type: ‎Van, Sport-Utility-Vehicles, Truck, Trailer


Material: ‎Alloy Steel


Finish Type: ‎Powder Coated


Pull Force: ‎7.5E+3 Pounds


Automotive Fit Type: ‎Vehicle Specific Fit


OEM Part Number: ‎75776


Manufacturer: ‎Draw-Tite


UPC: ‎742512757767


Global Trade Identification Number: ‎67


Model: ‎75776


Item Weight: ‎32 pounds


Country of Origin: ‎Mexico


Item model number: ‎75776


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎75776


Date First Available: May 14, 2012


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Tuesday, Apr 29

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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  • Financing through Apple Pay
Leasing options through Acima may also be available during checkout.

Learn more about financing & leasing here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Well built, quality products.
Style: 2015-2024 Nissan Murano
Tip: Before installing hitch, take a bolt and screw it into each of the five holes then remove it to clean the threads out. When installing the hitch just thread bolts leaving them loose so you can move the hitch slightly to install all the bolts. I recommend antiseize on the threads and torque them to 50 lbs. Excellent product, well built, fit perfectly on my 2021 Murano. Easy install. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 27, 2025 by Predator
    • 2024 Jeep JL. Slid right on.
Style: Jeep Wrangler/ Wrangler JK
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2024 Jeep JL. Went on easily with one small caveat that it was difficult to get the washer and nut in on the left due to the flange for the wiring. I suggest using a long needle nosed vise grip pliers to hold nut in place while you twist bolt in place. Super beefy and the extended length made it zero issue to use bike rack. AND fits my jeep cover! I also did NOT have to lower muffler, but you will need a 19 and 18 mm shorty sockets to really tighten to spec. Btw, went with Curt first and could not mount, even trying to pound it in place. Returned it. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 12, 2025 by OD OD
    • 2 person job but great item!
Style: 2016-2022 Honda HR-V
Review Image by WakehamWifey WakehamWifey
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My husband and I installed this today on our Hrv. It was not complicated other than moving the muffler out of the way the putting it back. It definitely helps having 2 people to hold everything in the right spot while screwing both sides into place. There was no cutting or modification needed other than bending down the muffler mounts. Having no previous experience it took us an just a little over an hour but we could probably install the next one in in 30 minutes if that. Minor chipped paint but it is under the vehicle so it won't be visible. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2025 by WakehamWifey WakehamWifey
    • Beware the tongue weight!
Style: Jeep Wrangler/ Wrangler JK
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
Review Image by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
APPLICATION I installed this on a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara with factory tow package and aftermarket Mopar Offroad Steel Bumper (it’s old, and different from the one they now sell under that moniker). I am the original owner of this vehicle, which has about 120,000 miles on it. FIRST IMPRESSIONS This is a MUCH beefier hitch than the one that came OEM on the vehicle from the factory. I mean, it’s not even close. It looks and feels HUGE in comparison and is obviously high quality. It DOES stick out from the bumper by several inches (the OEM one was flush with the bumper), but not enough to make me sorry I got it. It does NOT include a bracket for holding the 4-pin wiring connector like the OEM hitch does. The factory hitch has a tongue weight rating of 350 lbs, while this one has a rating of 675 lbs. It is the specific reason why I upgraded. I plannws to use it with a Yamaha Exo SwingBase and Top Shelf, which is 100 lbs without any cargo added, so I wanted to beef up my tongue weight rating accordingly. RELATED ITEMS I am using this receiver hitch with the following related items: TOPTOW Hitch Extender: https://a.co/d/ayeWP5U MaxxHaul 50174 Locking Pin Set: https://a.co/d/hILSUMS Curt Harness Mounting Bracket for 4-way flat: https://a.co/d/g5vPpyU Curt Rubber Trailer Hitch Cover: https://a.co/d/e1jV0IG Yakima EXO Top Shelf (37 lbs): https://a.co/d/1bVlGhm Yakima EXO SwingBase (64 lbs): https://a.co/d/8VxoDC7 Valley Industries Hitch cargo basket similar to: https://a.co/d/j7Iz3cu INSTRUCTIONS The instructions that came with the kit are just wrong. It says the included bolts are 18mm and they’re 19mm. The ones I took off the vehicle were ALSO 19mm. Additionally, it gives instructions for the Mopar Offroad Bumper that do not apply to my Mopar Offroad Bumper because, apparently, the design changed significantly over time. Besides that, the instructions are pretty simple. If you don’t have a hitch installed already, put this one on, put the bolts, washers and nuts on and torque it down. No rocket science here. The instructions DO say to drop the muffler, and that would certainly make it easier to put the bolts in, but with some effort and patience, you can get the bolts on without removing the muffler, which would save you a lot of effort. Getting the washers and nuts on can be difficult – it was very difficult with the bumper I have. See “My Personal Experience” section for details. If you already have a hitch installed, you obviously have to remove that first. The instructions didn’t address this issue. It’s not rocket science either, but it may be difficult due to rust issues. MY PERSONAL INSTALL EXPERIENCE This was a nightmare install for me, as I have a 2007 Jeep that has been in Pennsylvania for the past 10 years. That means it has lots and lots of rust. I tried to get the nuts on the existing hitch off. I got one of them kinda-sorta loose and gave up. I decided it would be better to just pay someone to do this job. So, I made arrangements – Total Offroad was going to do it for $150. Unfortunately, they gave up too. They said they put two hours into it and couldn’t get the bolts off. SO, they gave me back my Jeep and told me they would not charge me. After thinking about it for a bit, I decided to try a reciprocating saw with 12” heavy duty carbide blades from Diablo. It worked! I got the right-most (passenger side) nut cut off, and got half-way through the next bolt before the blade broke. The next blade finished the job. Amazingly, I got the two driver’s side bolts off intact. Maybe all the vibration from the saw loosened them up? Anyway, I worked the bolts out, without having to remove the muffler. Patience is the key. After that, a couple of hits with a heavy hammer knocked the hitch to the ground. In the course of all of that, I damaged the wiring for my bumper’s reverse lights, so that is extra work that most of you won’t have to do. Hoisting the new hitch into place is easy. Getting the new bolts in, not so much (assuming you didn’t remove the muffler). You have to wiggle-jiggle the bolt and the muffler around quiet a bit, but with lots of frustration and patience, it is possible. I got the left-most bolt in first, then the next one on the left side, then the inner right one, and finally the right-most one. Once you get that far, getting the nut-side washers and nuts on can be difficult – it was very difficult with the bumper I have and I had to use special Irwin extra long double-hinged pliers (like these: https://a.co/d/cypCiGj) to hold the nuts in place while I threaded the bolts into them because I simply couldn’t get my hands/fingers in there. You have to pull the bolt back toward the front of the jeep, so that it only sticks out the hole toward the rear about a half-inch. This gives you as much room as possible to position the washer and the nut. I used the pliers to position and hold the nut and threaded the bolt in with my other hand. It’s tricky – and if you’re like me you’ll need multiple “breaks” to get it all done, but you can get there eventually. Once you have all four bolts loosely threaded into the nuts, finger tight, it’s time for final torque. It’s helpful to have a friend, wife or mistress push up on the hitch so that gives you as much ground clearance as possible. There’s a bit of vertical slop there, so you can either take it in the sloppy downward most position, or have someone push it up until you get the right-most and left-most nuts fully torqued so it will hold itself in position, while you do the other two nuts. Not sure how much difference it actually makes, but that’s what I did. PERFORMANCE REVIEW After all that work, I was ready to try it out on my road trip! It was about 285 miles total. I was disappointed. In my initial configuration, I used the TOPTOW Hitch Extender 2” drop in conjunction with Yakima Exo Swing Base and the cargo basket, loaded up how I wanted it. I know it LOOKS like a lot in the picture, but there is no way I exceeded the weight limit. I had MAYBE 300 lbs on it. After 90 miles or so, it was clear that the rack was bending down. I proceeded carefully after that and by the time I got to camp, it was REALLY bending down. So much so that I didn’t feel like I was going to be able to drive back home safely. The next day, what I determined is that there is a lot of “flex” in the configuration. One source of flex is within the Draw-Tite receiver hitch itself. The plate that faces the back side of the frame flexes a bit. The entire rear section of the frame also flexed a bit. The Yakima device also flexes. All of it together was just unacceptable. I decided to remove the TOPTOW Hitch Extender 2” from the configuration. I also re-packed my Jeep for the trip home, to bit as little weight on the cargo rack as possible. In the end, it still flexed, and more than I would like. But it isn’t clear that it is unsafe. I’m really not sure what to make of it. I plan to weigh my cargo boxes and everything I had on the hitch before I decide what to do about it. I’m WONDERING if making an additional steel support plate for rear-facing side of the frame at the hitch would help much. OVERALL I’m not sure this was a real upgrade over the OEM receiver hitch. It seems like it would be, but in terms of practical use, I’m not convinced it is doing much for me. I cannot, however, compare with the OEM hitch at this point, since I removed it. YMMV. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 7, 2023 by Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer Ferrox Aerelious The Destroyer
    • Take your time read the instructions completely first.
Style: 2009-2013 Subaru Forester
This was the most challenging trailer hitch install I've done so far. This hitch appears to fit a lot of different brands and models of vehicles so I should say I put mine on a 2009 Subaru Forester. So far, I've done one on my 2002 accord, my 2009 corolla, a 2004 impreza I used to have, and a 2015 highlander. This was the hardest. There was the combination of enlarging holes which I personally just drilled bigger even though you are supposed to drill two small holes and file. This was the only trailer hitch I've done where the mufflers had to be disconnected. I've done several where they had to be lowered but not actually disconnected. Perhaps it could have been done if every hanger was disconnected but the mufflers still bolted on. Probably so but I didn't catch the hanger on the side of each muffler. Also, my instructions disappeared under my piece of cardboard which is my bad luck I guess because I didn't notice right away there are two different sizes of bolts. These are all mistakes I made but it's not easy regardless. The trailer hitch itself is pretty awesome it's a 2 inch receiver which I've never seen on any car I own even my 2008 outback. I just use a hitch for bikes and a cargo tray sometimes so it's not that amazing but still pretty good. I bet the hitch can handle more than my rust bucket 2009 forester from PA that I probably shouldn't have bought but was mechanically sorted including head gaskets and the interior is quite nice. I drown everything in fluid film and we'll see how long it lasts. OK, I'll give the hitch five stars, I made a couple mistakes. Although my mufflers were pretty new, it was probably easier to disconnect them and let them hang by the outside hanger than remove all the hangers and try to get them back in place later. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 26, 2025 by clearanceman

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