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CURT

CURT 12107 Class 2 Trailer Hitch, 1-1/4-Inch Receiver, Compatible with Select Toyota Avalon, Camry

    • Based on 228 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: 11 left in stock
Fulfilled by Trends Auto
Arrives Thursday, Dec 26
Order within 22 hours and 46 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

Features

  • DEPENDABLE STRENGTH. With a strong, welded steel build, this class 2 hitch package is rated for 3,500 lbs. gross trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight (limited to lowest-rated towing component)
  • HIGHLY VERSATILE. Add useful, versatile towing options to your vehicle with this class 2 trailer hitch. It provides a standard 1-1/4-inch x 1-1/4-inch receiver hitch, allowing you to tow a small trailer or mount a cargo carrier or bike rack
  • DUAL-COAT FINISH. For industry-leading rust, chip and UV resistance inside and out, this automotive tow hitch is submersed in a liquid A-coat and co-cured with a durable black powder coat finish
  • EASY INSTALLATION. This class 2 hitch fits select model years of the Toyota Avalon and Camry
  • TESTED FOR SAFETY. Each CURT class 2 trailer hitch design is thoroughly tested at our Detroit facility, using real vehicles in real-world conditions. Our hitches are tested to SAE J684 specs to give you confidence and safety on the road ahead

Description

Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Toyota Avalon and Camry (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.


Brand: CURT


Item Weight: 34.75 Pounds


Vehicle Service Type: Pickup Trucks, Marine-Personal-Craft, Car, Sport-Utility-Vehicles, Trailer


Material: Carbon Steel


Finish Type: GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT


Manufacturer: ‎CURT


Brand: ‎CURT


Model: ‎Class 2 Hitch


Item Weight: ‎34.8 pounds


Product Dimensions: ‎21 x 41 x 10 inches


Item model number: ‎12107


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Exterior: ‎GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎12107


OEM Part Number: ‎12107


Date First Available: May 28, 2013


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Thursday, Dec 26

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Quality hitch
Review Image by jman jman
I purchased this hitch for installation on a 2014 Toyota Camry, primarily to hold a cargo carrier for road trips when the trunk doesn't provide enough space. Other reviews have a lot of helpful tips for the install itself - the biggest thing I found helpful was to use a 1" hole saw for the hole in the frame. It isn't an easy install but it is doable - make sure to watch videos of the install instructions to make sure you know what you're getting into before you hit buy. The hitch itself is very well made and the paint finish is a very good quality, I'm not worried about it wearing off or looking old anytime soon. Clearance underneath my vehicle was something I was wondering about - for reference on a Camry at least, the hitch does not sit any lower than the muffler already does. See my photo for reference. I was impressed enough that I bought a Curt cargo carrier (make sure you order one for a 1 1/4" receiver) and it is also very well made. A bit expensive but worth it for something that could cause an accident if it doesn't hold up. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 24, 2022 by jman jman
    • Great Hitch for 2013+ Toyota Avalon V6 and Hybrid
Review Image by Dylan P. Dylan P.
Review Image by Dylan P. Dylan P.
Review Image by Dylan P. Dylan P.
Review Image by Dylan P. Dylan P.
Review Image by Dylan P. Dylan P.
Searched the market for a hitch to install on my 2016 Toyota Avalon V6, and this fit the bill. Amazon didn't have the right cars listed for the post (this does definitely fit all 2013+ Toyota Avalon's with either the V6 or hybrid system). I budgeted 4 hrs to do this in the driveway without a jack or stands, and it took just that long. I did run into a few misteps that I could have saved time on. I removed the entire muffler from both sides of my car. If you have the hybrid, you only have 1 muffler to remove and a trim panel. This was critical as I couldn't fit a drill with bit installed unless I removed the muffler. They are held in with about 6 bolts each. Set aside. I then had some help to hold the hitch in place while I tightened 4 of the 6 mounting screws to hold the hitch in place. I then marked the holes to be drilled. You need someone's help holding the hitch up unless you are very strong and coordinated (it's super awkward holding it alone). Drilling the holes is a matter of preference. I bought a set of cheap step drill bits that went to 3/4". If I did this again, buy a set drill bit that goes to 1" and be done with it. I used my 3/4" step drill bit with no pilot hole and drilled until it bottomed out on the last size. I then had to wallow out the hole using a dremel with a sanding bit. I used 10 sanding bits to enlarge 2 holes over the course of 1 hr. Again, just get the 1" step drill bit or a 1" hole saw bit. Once the holes were drilled to 1", I spray painted the bare metal with some clear spray paint to protect the metal from rust. After drying, I reinstalled the hitch with only the rear 2 bolts (through the new holes using the reverse fishwire method - works great). At this point, I'd suggest installing the front bolts with the exhaust off, and torquing the rear bolts with locktite to 110 foot pounds per the instructions. Remove the front bolts. Once you have the rear torqued, reinstall the muffler on one side. You do need to bend the mount bracket on the exhaust hanger flat (couple of wrenches/pliers will do). Reinstall all bolts and new bolts to hold the muffler, torque to 45 foot pounds with locktite. Don't forget the washers. Repeat if you have the V6 on the other side. If you have the hybrid, trim the panel per directions, or omit this step if you can manage without trimming. Again, locktite and washers and torque. I had to remove the mufflers an extra time because I couldn't access the rear bolts to tighten with a torque wrench. This was tedious to remove the mufflers, relocktite everything, and redo the process. I got good at taking the exhaust apart though. Also, the step drill bit fiasco was annoying. Buy a 1" step drill bit/hole saw. You aren't saving much metal by grinding it out yourself with a smaller hole. All things considered, it would take about 2.5 hrs had I had the right drill bit and not messed up the torquing sequence. Also, having the car in the driveway with a slant was useful, though lifting the car would have been more helpful, though not necessary on my car. Product is holding up well, comes with a hitch pin, and at the time I ordered it, had Curt's $20 rebate, so even sweeter deal. I made my own hitch covers front and rear out of flip flops (just cut the foam to shape and insert). I use my hitch for a bike rack, not towing. Read your owners manual for towing specs and tongue weight limits and buy a stronger hitch than you need. Better to have more capacity than just enough or too little. Happy towing! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 29, 2017 by Dylan P. Dylan P.
    • Some hardware screws/bolts didn’t fit into my hitch holes
Review Image by Marky Mark Marky Mark
Review Image by Marky Mark Marky Mark
Review Image by Marky Mark Marky Mark
I purchased this hitch for my 2016 Camry SE so I can attach a bike rack hitch for mountain biking. I originally had a trunk bike rack but it seemed unsafe to carry such an expensive bike. I used this YouTube video as a guide rather than relying on the instructions: etrailer | Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Toyota Camry - Curt. I know the video shows the car lifted up in a workshop but I just backed up into my slightly slopped driveway and picked up the car from both sides with a jack. PLEASE secure your front two wheels with a stopper if you follow this method for safety precautions. My biggest concern was the hardware provided aka the screws needed to secure the hitch to the back frame. Before installing the hitch, the screws provided fit into the holes perfectly but when I installed the hitch temporarily to mark the third hole, the screws wouldn’t thread into the front two holes. I ended up using the screws/bolts from my Camry as they had no issues fitting in. We temporarily attached the hitch to the car and marked our holes with a marker and then removed the hitch once again. My dad drilled a 1/4 inch hole through the frame and then used a step drill bit until the hole was big enough to fit the metal plate and bolt inside (don’t forget to attach your fish wire through your bolt). From what my dad said, he said there was no reason to trim the heat shield. But we ended up trimming the heat shield to the hole closest to the muffler side. Then my dad drilled a hole big enough into the heat shield to attach the heat shield to the 3rd hole on the hitch (to prevent any vibrating or rattling sounds when driving). We removed the metal plate attached to the muffler and hammered it flat so it lays flat against the hitch. Overall the installation took about 2 and a half hours mainly because we couldn’t find all the tools and material we needed at first. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 31, 2021 by Marky Mark Marky Mark
    • Having the right tools and extra hands really helps.
My first time installed it by myself. It toke me several hours because I didn't have the right tools and extra hands. Having impact gun really helps! I spray undercoat under the car to prevent future rust and any place I drilled. I used the milk cart to support the hitch and used to support the muffler when put back. Drop the muffler, removed (2)10m screws, remove the black rubber exhaust one (1) in the middle and two (2) at the end of the exhaust tailpipe. I didn't cut the heat shield. I used the rubber mallet on the cardboard box and hit it flat. I drilled a hole on the 3rd screw 19m screw and trim half circle quarter coin on the heat shield at the end so the 2nd screw 17m. Make sure to torque all the screws. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 19, 2022 by Kevin

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