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Creality K1 SE 3D Printer, with 600 mm/s Printing Speed CoreXY Auto Leveling and Z-Offset, 300℃ Dual-Gear Direct Extruder Full Metal Die Cast Solid Frame Printing Size 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch

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Availability: Only 5 left in stock, order soon!
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Arrives Wednesday, Jan 22
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Model: K1 SE


Features

  • Speedy with CoreXY and Easy to Start: K1 SE inherits the lightweight and agile CoreXY system of the K series. It offers a thrilling max printing speed of 600 millimeters per second and a whopping acceleration of 20000 millimeter per square second without compromising the print quality. The recommended printing speed for optimal print quality is 300 millimeters per second. K1 SE comes pre-assembled and pre-tuned before shipment. After an easy unboxing and set-up, it is ready for plug-and-play. You can easily switch to a nozzle that fits your specific print with K1 SE's one-had swappable nozzle feature. And when you start printing, one-tap auto-calibration gets everything ready for you
  • Auto Leveling and Z-offset: Creality K1 SE 3d printer, its auto-calibration gets everything ready, with one tap. Bid farewell to the frustrating leveling work with calibration paper. It equips CR Touch for auto leveling and auto Z offset. It is easy to get a perfect first layer. Leveling is the important process before printing, it usually make customers in trouble. This printer can save your time in leveling, and easily start to print. Which is friendly to all of customers including the beginners
  • Flagship Extrusion Kit and 60 Watt Hotend: K1 SE uses the same extruder as K1C, it feeds the filament precisely without any slacking. The extruder, equipped with a newly added side spring and ball plunger, feeds filaments precisely without slacking. Apart from regular filaments, it can also handle the flexible TPU filament. The ceramic heater, encircling the hotend, can fully melt ABS and other filaments for ultra-fast printing. It only takes 75 seconds to heat from 0 to 300 degree. Also, the durable steel-tipped copper nozzle integrated with a titanium alloy heatbreak. It blocks heat-creep and allows one-hand swap
  • All-metal Solid Frame and Open-source Design: K1 SE has a super rigid frame with parts made by integrated die casting. It also features corner gussets and crossbeams on both sides for reinforcement. It operates truly stably with minimal shaking. K1 SE's structure can be creatively modified by adding 3D-printed side panels, a side spool holder, and more. The reserved USB ports can be easily connected to a web camera. Freedom to add 3d printed side panels, a USB webcam, and so on. Also, more possibilities with the open-source Creality OS based on Klipper
  • Other Details and Software: A dynamically balanced part cooling fan produces fewer vibrations, which are mitigated by active input shaping. PEI flexible build plate is two-sided epoxy flexible build plate, no more ringing, and surface artifacts. heat and wear resistant, bendable for easy print removal. Its slicing software, Creality Print 5.0, has an all-new UI for a refreshing slicing experience. It supports more than 40 kinds of filament presets, 3MF model format, and efficient multi-plate management

Brand: Comgrow


Material: Aluminum


Color: Black


Product Dimensions: 13.18"D x 13.18"W x 18.97"H


Item Weight: 22.57 Pounds


Product Dimensions: 13.18 x 13.18 x 18.97 inches


Item Weight: 22.6 pounds


Item model number: K1 SE


Date First Available: June 25, 2024


Manufacturer: Creality 3D


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Wednesday, Jan 22

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Review Image by James Arjuna Sr James Arjuna Sr
I was really surprised at what this printer can do. I have 5 of them now and use them for production parts in my valve and machine. I even print sprockets using a chain drive and PC carbon fiber PETG carbon fiber. I have upgraded all of them a bit. All have direct drive extruder and the all metal hot ends, as I print at 248C and the Teflon tube cannot take that temperature very long and will cause a blockage in the hot end. The hottest I have had to print so far is 255 and it works great. You can buy a cheap “heat break” that makes the Creality hot end “all metal”. Three have the dual Z axis kit on them, and the other two still single and print fine. But the single Z's need leveling more often. I put all aluminum extruders on and have no issues with feed. I have never had to adjust the E steps, nor have I upgraded the firmware, as they all work and print parts within .02 mm. The only issue I had was three of them had .4 mm nozzles were not .4 mm, from the factory, and that caused some funny prints with the walls separating. I used a digital caliper and measure the filament coming out of the nozzles at under .3 mm. Now with every nozzle install I run some filament out and see if it, shows 0.4 exactly on all the replacements. All the walls print strong now. I think that Creality got some .3 mm nozzles with .4 marking. To get perfect prints requires some testing and working on the printers. I print almost exclusively PETG and many different brands depending on he price. I noticed that some I bought direct from China were “wet” and so I bought dryers. All the PETG I dry before using and get no “blistering” where the moisture expands under heat. I just don't have time to keep reprinting because of moisture. I also print some TPU and at on time printed over 500 of these “rubber” grommets that our supplier stopped making during the COVID shortages. The main thing is to assemble it correctly so that the X bar is level and the wheels (with the pom tires) can actually spin with some friction. You can measure with a metric tape or rule and get it within .5 mm. I actually drilled a 5 mm hole in the vertical to be able to get the X axis perfect. The hole allows the Allen wrench to loosen the X cross member so you can level it without having to keep removing and adjusting the whole X axis bar. The verticals need to be square to the base and they are very close. On two I put the triangle rods to get it perfect. I used a machinist square to get it perfect. Smooth is the keyword. You don't want any "jump" from the Z axis (rising axis). Parallel and 90 deg to the bottom frames. After about 6 months I installed the dual Z axis and that was simple enough. This one change made it so I can print the same part over and over up to 100 times without having to tram the bed. Also called leveling. `After some time I learned that he Z limit switch will get out of calibration and that spraying it with canned air removes the dirt or whatever is changing the stop point. I think an LED version would be better. On the beds, every one of them has had loose axles on the wheels. The 5 mm screws with 8 mm nuts needed to be tightened. To do this you need to loosen the offset wheels so you can get them vertically stable. There should be absolutely NO wobble in the bed. If you feel any, stop and tighten the rollers. I have had to replace three rollers where the bearings were bad and the wheels wiggled on the shafts. Always adjust the cam 10mm so the wheels can move with slight friction. Over tight causes problems and too loose is also bad. Just so they spin with friction. No wobble side to side or when you lift the corners of the bed. Every screw on the printer needs to be checked for tightness. EVERY screw. Loose screws are a nightmare. Even on my $1000 big printers, all of them needed to have the screws tightened, even the screws under the bed. No wobble and you will have “happy printing”. I have not put the auto bed leveling on as it actually takes longer to print with it (on my other printers). I use only glass on the beds (I scrapped off the magnetic sheet and cleaned with alcohol) and still use the doubled standard printer paper to set the level. I just got “good” at it. Then when the print starts sometimes, but rarely, I will tweak the adjustments. I usually print a skirt with three lines so I can “feel” the thickness of the first layer. I did put the stronger bed springs on also, this gives more stability. I use the Ultimaker Cura (updated)and it has more adjustments than most beginners can use. But as you learn you can make slight adjustments and try them out and see things improve. One of the good things is this printer is so popular you can find lots of YouTube videos to help you. And parts can be found on Aliexpress for the same parts way less. The all come from China, anyway. I have five of these Ender 3 Pro's now, bought two from Comgrow Amazon, came with the glass bed plates. I print almost exclusively PETG at 248c Nozzle and 85C bed temp, (this makes for very good layer welding) and bought the Creality glass plates and the Bed Weld, water based adhesive so the PETG will let go. The higher temp is to insure both a good layer weld and that the cooling will cause the parts to just come of very easy. Once printed they just come off very easy. If I dry the filament I get almost NO stringing. I can't stress how important dry filament is for nice prints. The metal flex plates and the ones that come with the printers magnetic plastic do not work with PETG at all. They are ruined after two prints. Glass is the best with the Layerneer Bed Weld and I have no problems with adhesion and removal. Just have to wait for cooling. The prints come off as if nothing was holding them when it cools. The parts in the photo are actually functional parts that we can't get from a supplier.. So, naturally I made a CAD drawing and made them. The trick with functional parts is to make the plastic about 1/3 thicker than on injection molded, because of the tiny gaps caused by the space between the "lines" of print. It is not 100% solid even if it looks like it is. And most of my prints use 100% infill because hey are parts getting some heavy use. Overall, it is a good choice and a workhorse printer. For the money it still can't be beaten, That is why the 5 stars. But for those who are “technically challenged”, you may get frustrated with the learning curve. After a few hundred prints you will be a pro. Watch the videos as there are tons of them. There may be equally good or better printers for the price, but the availability of parts, upgrade parts and help resources for these printers is amazing. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 1, 2021 by James Arjuna Sr James Arjuna Sr
    • Amazing, should've got one sooner!
Model: K1 Max
If you're in the market for a 3d printer you should really consider this one whether you're a beginner or an experienced Maker. I have several open frame printers and some enclosed that I really like but this is my new favorite. If you're new to 3d printing, be patient and follow the directions when assembling. When setting up your new awesome machine, a few things to keep in mind: Accessibility The default filament spool is on the back but there are a variety of options to place your filament elsewhere. You can 3d print side mounts, standalone mounts, or purchase a dryer and have your filament fed to the printer. Also keep in mind you will be removing the lid frequently and there are several cool options on various sites to 3d printer a lid riser. Stability This type of printer frame is FAST compared to a typical sling bed printer such as Prusa, Tenlog TL-D3 Pro, or any other NON "coreXY" type frame. So much that it will shake a lightweight table, a Swedish side table ;), or anything not very stable or secure. Software The included Creality Print version 5 slicer is very capable, easy to use, and works great! I enjoy it for a lot of everyday prints. If you're looking greater control, then OrcaSlicer works very well depending on your need. Frankly Built on YT has some fantastic reviews on this awesome machine. Multi-material There are options if you're looking to print multiple filaments. Creality was supposed to release the CFS over the summer with the K2, but it has been delayed until November which I am looking forward to. There are several 3rd party options available now however the best that I've found so far is 3d Chameleon. 3D Chameleon has come a long way but still requires a lot of tinkering. Overall, I highly recommend the K1 Max whether your new to 3d printing or are a seasoned pro. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 20, 2024 by vikthor

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