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Comgrow

Creality K1 Max 3D Printer with Smart AI Function 600mm/s Printing Speed 20000mm/s² Acceleration, Core XY Structure 11.81x11.81x11.81 inch Large Build Volume Auto Leveling Dual-Gear Extruder

    • Based on 10,510 reviews
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Availability: Only 10 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Monday, Feb 10
Order within 1 hour and 57 minutes
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Model: K1 Max


Features

  • Smart AI Function: 1 Micrometer Resolution AI Lidar scans the first layer, if there is any problem, it will stop the printing job giving you quality models. Observant AI Camera can recognize spaghetti failure, foreign matter, debris, etc. and support real-time monitoring and time-lapse filming
  • 12 Faster and More Efficient: Creality K1 Max 3d printer, equips printing speed 600 millimeter per second and acceleration 20000 millimeters per square second, it is12 times faster than the other normal 3d printer. Give good printing experience to customers and get a good model in short time
  • Size-efficient with Max Capacity: It offers a 300x300x300 millimeter large build volume, which meets more requirement of larger printing model
  • Dual Hands-free Auto Leveling: Creality K1 Max 3d printer, its strain sensors in the heatbed for more precise auto leveling without any operation or attention
  • More Efficient Function: Core XY Structure makes the printing more stable. Prompt model cooling by a fan on the printhead with directional air ducts and also an auxiliary fan in the build chamber

Brand: Comgrow


Material: Glass and Metal


Product Dimensions: 17.12"D x 18.18"W x 20.7"H


Item Weight: 39.7 Pounds


Compatible Devices: Laptop, PC


Product Dimensions: 17.12 x 18.18 x 20.7 inches


Item Weight: 39.7 pounds


Item model number: K1 Max


Date First Available: August 31, 2023


Manufacturer: Creality 3D


Country of Origin: China


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Monday, Feb 10

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

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View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Ender 3 Pro is both Professional with a few upgrades and Beginner as is NICE
Review Image by James Arjuna Sr James Arjuna Sr
I was really surprised at what this printer can do. I have 5 of them now and use them for production parts in my valve and machine. I even print sprockets using a chain drive and PC carbon fiber PETG carbon fiber. I have upgraded all of them a bit. All have direct drive extruder and the all metal hot ends, as I print at 248C and the Teflon tube cannot take that temperature very long and will cause a blockage in the hot end. The hottest I have had to print so far is 255 and it works great. You can buy a cheap “heat break” that makes the Creality hot end “all metal”. Three have the dual Z axis kit on them, and the other two still single and print fine. But the single Z's need leveling more often. I put all aluminum extruders on and have no issues with feed. I have never had to adjust the E steps, nor have I upgraded the firmware, as they all work and print parts within .02 mm. The only issue I had was three of them had .4 mm nozzles were not .4 mm, from the factory, and that caused some funny prints with the walls separating. I used a digital caliper and measure the filament coming out of the nozzles at under .3 mm. Now with every nozzle install I run some filament out and see if it, shows 0.4 exactly on all the replacements. All the walls print strong now. I think that Creality got some .3 mm nozzles with .4 marking. To get perfect prints requires some testing and working on the printers. I print almost exclusively PETG and many different brands depending on he price. I noticed that some I bought direct from China were “wet” and so I bought dryers. All the PETG I dry before using and get no “blistering” where the moisture expands under heat. I just don't have time to keep reprinting because of moisture. I also print some TPU and at on time printed over 500 of these “rubber” grommets that our supplier stopped making during the COVID shortages. The main thing is to assemble it correctly so that the X bar is level and the wheels (with the pom tires) can actually spin with some friction. You can measure with a metric tape or rule and get it within .5 mm. I actually drilled a 5 mm hole in the vertical to be able to get the X axis perfect. The hole allows the Allen wrench to loosen the X cross member so you can level it without having to keep removing and adjusting the whole X axis bar. The verticals need to be square to the base and they are very close. On two I put the triangle rods to get it perfect. I used a machinist square to get it perfect. Smooth is the keyword. You don't want any "jump" from the Z axis (rising axis). Parallel and 90 deg to the bottom frames. After about 6 months I installed the dual Z axis and that was simple enough. This one change made it so I can print the same part over and over up to 100 times without having to tram the bed. Also called leveling. `After some time I learned that he Z limit switch will get out of calibration and that spraying it with canned air removes the dirt or whatever is changing the stop point. I think an LED version would be better. On the beds, every one of them has had loose axles on the wheels. The 5 mm screws with 8 mm nuts needed to be tightened. To do this you need to loosen the offset wheels so you can get them vertically stable. There should be absolutely NO wobble in the bed. If you feel any, stop and tighten the rollers. I have had to replace three rollers where the bearings were bad and the wheels wiggled on the shafts. Always adjust the cam 10mm so the wheels can move with slight friction. Over tight causes problems and too loose is also bad. Just so they spin with friction. No wobble side to side or when you lift the corners of the bed. Every screw on the printer needs to be checked for tightness. EVERY screw. Loose screws are a nightmare. Even on my $1000 big printers, all of them needed to have the screws tightened, even the screws under the bed. No wobble and you will have “happy printing”. I have not put the auto bed leveling on as it actually takes longer to print with it (on my other printers). I use only glass on the beds (I scrapped off the magnetic sheet and cleaned with alcohol) and still use the doubled standard printer paper to set the level. I just got “good” at it. Then when the print starts sometimes, but rarely, I will tweak the adjustments. I usually print a skirt with three lines so I can “feel” the thickness of the first layer. I did put the stronger bed springs on also, this gives more stability. I use the Ultimaker Cura (updated)and it has more adjustments than most beginners can use. But as you learn you can make slight adjustments and try them out and see things improve. One of the good things is this printer is so popular you can find lots of YouTube videos to help you. And parts can be found on Aliexpress for the same parts way less. The all come from China, anyway. I have five of these Ender 3 Pro's now, bought two from Comgrow Amazon, came with the glass bed plates. I print almost exclusively PETG at 248c Nozzle and 85C bed temp, (this makes for very good layer welding) and bought the Creality glass plates and the Bed Weld, water based adhesive so the PETG will let go. The higher temp is to insure both a good layer weld and that the cooling will cause the parts to just come of very easy. Once printed they just come off very easy. If I dry the filament I get almost NO stringing. I can't stress how important dry filament is for nice prints. The metal flex plates and the ones that come with the printers magnetic plastic do not work with PETG at all. They are ruined after two prints. Glass is the best with the Layerneer Bed Weld and I have no problems with adhesion and removal. Just have to wait for cooling. The prints come off as if nothing was holding them when it cools. The parts in the photo are actually functional parts that we can't get from a supplier.. So, naturally I made a CAD drawing and made them. The trick with functional parts is to make the plastic about 1/3 thicker than on injection molded, because of the tiny gaps caused by the space between the "lines" of print. It is not 100% solid even if it looks like it is. And most of my prints use 100% infill because hey are parts getting some heavy use. Overall, it is a good choice and a workhorse printer. For the money it still can't be beaten, That is why the 5 stars. But for those who are “technically challenged”, you may get frustrated with the learning curve. After a few hundred prints you will be a pro. Watch the videos as there are tons of them. There may be equally good or better printers for the price, but the availability of parts, upgrade parts and help resources for these printers is amazing. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 1, 2021 by James Arjuna Sr James Arjuna Sr
    • Amazing value, NOT for "plug and play" people
Review Image by Bobby Page Bobby Page
Review Image by Bobby Page Bobby Page
Review Image by Bobby Page Bobby Page
I will say this first: I am absolutely shocked at the quality of print from this thing for $275 -- it's genuinely the greatest bang for your buck that you're going to find in the 3D printer world. HOWEVER: I want to make it very clear this is NOT for the impatient beginner who just wants to open the package and start printing stuff. This is a PROJECT that you assemble and tinker with. If you're someone who likes working with your hands and tinkering with Arduino/RPi projects, then this is 100% the printer for you. If you don't like working with your hands and don't have patience to square up the frame, adjust the belt tensions, level the bed, etc., DO NOT waste your money because you will get garbage prints and end up frustrated. I am a complete beginner so this took me a good while to get my first print done. I didn't time it but essentially construction took around 2 hours (basically watched a YouTube video and followed along -- look up "just vlad ender 3 pro setup" his video is absolutely perfect). I took some more time familiarizing myself with the controls and UI, leveling the bed, etc (probably around a half hour). I also realized by Y belt tension was really loose and the wheel bearings were slightly rocky so that took some extra tweaking to fix as well. I also used a level test from Thingiverse (2987803) -- glad I did this because it caught some issues with one of the corners of my bed. After running this test twice and messing with the bed level (probably another 30 minutes), I printed the dog that came on the card (took around 3 hours). I cannot impress on you enough how thankful I am that I double and triple checked all the moving parts to get this stuff right the first time. Clearly there is some stringing in the print (attached, see top left ear and front paws, there was also some by the tail) so it's not perfect. But all in all for $275 I am more than happy with that quality. The magnetic surface on the bed is also fantastic, the print just popped right off no residue or anything stuck. Now for the negative: The instructions are complete garbage. Like less than 0/10. I don't care how much content is on YouTube -- Creality needs to provide a better assembly manual. There are countless things that need to be explained -- for example: check the wheel bearings on the Y axis before doing anything -- you need to flip the printer over to reach the eccentric nut on the bearings, and this is a lot easier to do before assembling the printer. Also, check the bottom support beams for level and squareness -- out of the box these are likely uneven and not parallel and it will affect the entire construction of the printer if you don't fix that before building. Or to leave the vertical beams loose while building the printer and only tighten them when you get the X axis attached to the Z axis, and roll it to the bottom-most position to allow for flex on the supports. And there's many more things (luckily Vlad covers these in the video) that 12 pictures just can't cover. Assembly aside, they do absolutely nothing to familiarize you with the interface or to get started for your first print. Again, they do the absolute bare minimum of "slice the model with the software, then print it" -- like I guess technically that counts as instructions? It would honestly be less insulting if they just said hey there's no instructions search reddit and YouTube, you'll figure it out (seriously -- this would be more acceptable to me). Luckily this printer is a bit of a cult classic in the 3D printing community. There are tons of resources available from beginner's guides, upgrades, slicer settings, etc. All you have to do is look for them. All said and done, this is an absolute steal from a cost to value perspective. If you want to get into 3D printing and have the patience to tinker with it, this is a phenomenal printer. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 28, 2020 by Bobby Page Bobby Page

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