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VIT SPORT

1.75mm Filament Connector | Easy Operate Filament Welder Filament Splicer for 3D Printer | Filament Fuser Filament Joiner for PLA/ABS/PC/PETG/TPU Filaments

    • Based on 650 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Friday, Nov 1
Order within 21 hours and 29 minutes
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Features

  • 1. Upgrade Your 3D Printing Experience: Our VIT SPORT 1.75mm Filament Connector, also known as a filament welder or splicer, is designed to seamlessly join filaments. Say goodbye to filament waste during printing!
  • 2. Unparalleled Ease of Use: With our innovative filament splicer tool, connecting and welding filaments has never been easier. Simply follow our detailed instructions and enjoy uninterrupted printing.
  • 3. Superior Filament Welding: Our VIT SPORT 1.75mm Filament Connector ensures reliable and durable filament fusion. Rest assured, your prints will have seamless transitions without compromising strength or quality.
  • 4. Complete Filament Connectivity Kit: Our value-packed set includes the 1.75mm filament splicer tool, guaranteeing precision and stability, enabling flawless filament joining in every print. No need for additional purchases!
  • 5. VIT SPORT's Dedication to Your Success: Our professional team is dedicated to providing exceptional customer support. With a full year of after-sales service, we're here to help you achieve your 3D printing goals.

Brand: VIT SPORT


Material: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol, Polylactic Acid, Thermoplastic Polyurethane


Item Weight: 150 Grams


Item Diameter: 1.75 Millimeters


UPC:


Manufacturer: ‎VIT SPORT


Brand: ‎VIT SPORT


Item Weight: ‎5.3 ounces


Package Dimensions: ‎6.14 x 4.13 x 3.5 inches


Item model number: ‎5267


Material Type: ‎Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol, Polylactic Acid, Thermoplastic Polyurethane


Number of Items: ‎50


Manufacturer Part Number: ‎5267


Date First Available: April 7, 2021


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Friday, Nov 1

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • I'm glad I got this - it's not that hard to use and works really well if you do it right.
I own a 3D Printing business running 30 printers pretty much non stop 24/7. I've been wasting a TON of filament as most of the products I sell use more than 50g of filament. So when a roll get's low I just chuck it. while I do have a lot of prints that use less, it's just too big a hassle to swap out a running roll for a roll that is low for a short and quick print. Over the last month I've been setting aside the low rolls with the intention of figuring out a way to reuse them. In the last day I was able to take the scraps and turn them into 2 full rolls ready to go. This was the solution. Not only does this save some money, but it's sooo much better for the environment. I've tried other DYI methods of splicing filament and am a bit familiar with how it works so I knew what I was getting into with this. I was pleasantly surprised with how well and easy this worked. I'm using mostly Duramic PLA Pro that prints well at 215-220C, and that's what my experience is based on so far, but I suspect my method will work for any filament that prints between 200-220. Here's how I do it: Turn on the splicer and let it warm up for 3 minutes. while it's warming up, cut both ends of the filament to be spliced nice and square and straighten out the ends of the filament with about 1" straight on both. Once 3 minutes is up, turn off the splicer and immediately open the clamp and put one end of the filament in the middle of the clamp (in the center of the metal heating part). Close the clamp and then push the other filament end into the other end of the clamp till you feel it touch the clamped filament. With both hands push both ends of the filament together about 1mm, you'll feel them mushing together, you don't need to push mush, just making sure they're well contacted. Now let everything rest and cool. Be sure the clamp doesn't move around (I just use a vicegrips on the base to weight it down and position the rolls so they're not pulling on it, this takes a little fiddling but isn't hard). Cooling is the key, let it cool for like 8-10 minutes. Then just open the clamp, pop out the line and you can tear off the little wings that might be there with your fingernails. Then a little sanding (I use 220 grit) and you're good to go. So far this has worked great for me. I'm hoping the splicer holds up, and will update the review if it doesn't. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2023 by TyCo
    • Works well with modification
Because of heat spread left and right side of splice filament will sag.Modification with support on sides can be found online at 3D printing stl sties . Easy to print and use existing screws to put it together. May need little sanding if heat left on too long. Slight learning curve.
Reviewed in the United States on April 25, 2024 by Kindle Customer
    • Compared to the Black Model
Review Image by AaronCook311 AaronCook311
Review Image by AaronCook311 AaronCook311
Red VS Black Red doesn't use parchment paper. This may prove to be a bad thing after extended use, due to build up of filament on the clamp. Having said that, using parchment paper with Black is a little tricky. I now know why so many reviews comment on needing the 3rd hand. It takes a bit, but after a few attempts, I was getting it with minimal trouble. Black comes with standard paper clamps which are essentially useless, they tend to slip and release the filament, messing up the weld positioning. I'm surprised the manufacturer didnt 3d print some small U clips. Took me 30 minutes to draw something and have it printed. These work MUCH better than paper clips. Red has a stand. VERY convenient, especially considering the filament is spooled up and keeps pushing the black over. Not having the clamp level is a bad thing. The filament coming out of the sides gets hot enough to easily deform. I'll design something similar for Black that holds it in position. Black worked quite well with the settings listed (at least for PETG), whereas Red overheated the filament coming from the sides. After the cool down period, the filament had folded almost 90°. This should be an easy enough fix, just have to tweak the timing. Black came out "cleaner" whereas red needed more clean up. This is probably due to the parchment paper. Red comes with 3 files, Black only has 1. Red came with a timer, which was much more convenient than using my phone. Black seems to be built slightly better, but that might just be due to the size difference. Red is cheaper. In my opinion, there isn't a clear winner. They both work as advertised and with a little bit of practice, I think will have similar results. If nothing else, there shouldn't be buyer's remorse wishing you went the other way. HAPPY PRINTING!! Revision: After more experimenting, I'm growing fonder of Red. The omission of parchment paper just makes its SOO much easier. Tip - I coated the business end of Red with a Plastic Repellent product available from Slice Engineering. Hopefully using this stuff will add longevity to Red, as I had my initial concerns as to the parchment paper providing a line of defense. I tried to coat Black with the same product, but I still had some filaments adhere to the clamp, which scared me into resorting back to parchment paper. Only time will tell how many splices I can get from either type, but for now, my go to will be RED. Just easier to use, and it doesnt hurt that its cheaper. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on October 1, 2023 by AaronCook311 AaronCook311
    • Works okay in a pinch, but other options are easier
I've successfully fused filament with this device about 50% of the time. Unfortunately, if you don't get a really clean joint, it will jam somewhere in the filament path. The trick to getting it to come out clean is to make sure you give it at least 5 minutes after you turn the clamp off before you remove the filament from it, and then use a blade to shave off the flash on the sides followed by some light sanding to get a really smooth joint. I've personally found it easier to switch filament "on the run" by feeding in the new filament while the printer is running. It's probably not the BEST way to handle the need to change filaments, but with an open frame printer it's fairly easy to do as long as your print speed isn't crazy high. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 8, 2024 by Christopher Skinner
    • Doesn't work well, don't buy
Bought to use with ABS, it fuses in a way that pulls in one direction Allright, but breaks as soon as the fillament bends at all. And broke as soon as it hit the extruder, and made he have to un assemble and reassemble the extruder mid paused print to get it it feed fillament again. A large waste of money that almost ruined a multi-day print. I don't generally leave negative reviews, but this was such a disappointment, you are better off just doing manual fillament changes early and wasting a few dollars worth of fillament than buying this. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 9, 2024 by Kindle Customer

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