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ELEGOO

ELEGOO Neptune 3 Max 3D Printer, Auto Leveling FDM 3D Printer with Direct Drive Extruder, Dual Lead Screw Drive and Removable Touchscreen, 16.53x16.53x19.68 Inches Large Printing Size

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Availability: Only 10 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Thursday, Jul 4
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Size: ELEGOO Neptune 3 Max


Features

  • Direct Drive ExtruderThe dual-gear direct drive extruder features adjustable extrusion force and a 3:1 reduction ratio, which ensures smoother filament feeding and stable printing, greatly reducing nozzle clogging and gear jumping problems. Ideal for printing PLA, PETG, ABS and TPU
  • Massive Print VolumeWith larger build volume of 420x420x500mm /16.53x16.53x19.68 inches, ELEGOO Neptune 3 Max gives you generous printing space to let your creativity run wild, whether for printing larger models, or printing in batches
  • Auto & Auxiliary LevelingThe precision sensor automatically scans 63 points of the hotbed, and adjust the distance between nozzle and build plate, making leveling much easier and more efficient. You can also use the hand-twist knobs under the build platform for auxiliary leveling
  • Stable & Quiet PrintingThe Z-axis is designed with dual lead screws and dual-motor drive for more stable and precise movement. With an STM 32-bit silent motherboard, the X/Y/Z/E axes are all driven by high-precision stepper motors to effectively reduce the printing noise under 50 dB
  • PEI Magnetic PlatformPEI magnetic platform with a special coating and spring steel sheet for strong adhesion and anti-warping, so you can easily remove or eject the print models by slightly bending the print steel sheet
  • Removable TouchscreenThe 4.3-inch removable capacitive touch screen can be operated by hand-held or fixed on the base, you can easily preview the model image during printing and observe the printing progress, support multi-language freely switch

Brand: ELEGOO


Material: Aluminum


Product Dimensions: 16.53"D x 16.53"W x 19.68"H


Item Weight: 24 Pounds


Compatible Devices: Laptop, Smartphone


Package Dimensions: 32 x 26.8 x 10.8 inches


Item Weight: 24 pounds


Date First Available: October 17, 2022


Manufacturer: ELEGOO


Country of Origin: China


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Thursday, Jul 4

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • WOW and Wow and wow
Size: Neptune 3 Plus
Three wows - TWO great and one not so great After a few weeks deciding on a larger 3D printer for my molding use, I waited for the Elegoo Neptune 3 PLUS to be available in the USA. Of course it was Lunar New Year, so I thought I would be waiting for a few weeks. BUT HAHZAHH, Amazon had a few available January 23. I ordered it ASAP. Unit was delivered January 25 in good order. Happy New Year! Here's the detailed review. 1. Item was packed very nicely. Snug and full foam kept parts in place thru shipping. 2. Unpacking was easy, given the size of the bed and gantry, easier than I expected. All parts were as per manual. EACH part was in it's own CLEARLY labeled envelope - with corresponding numbers to match assembly instructions. This is much appreciated by me, especially if a particular screw is used by 3-4 different parts of assembly but are all placed in one bag. Less confusion, just more bags. 3. Assembly is as per video on the micro-Sd card, manual and quick start guide. I DO suggest watching the JUSTVLAD and Uncle Jessy reviews (on Facebook) of the Elegoo Neptune 3 PLUS before you start assembly. They address real world assembly, not "expert (ELEGOO employees )" assembly. Of course tighten all bolts and screws properly. Never tighten one side fully and then start to assemble the other - that can cause big trouble. 4. Once fully assembled, BEFORE you power up the unit, MAKE sure that all connections are good AND check cable routing - especially the mail ribbon cable to the print head. It HAS to be placed a certain way to clear the rear brace and NOT rub against it. 5. Make sure the bed is NOT wobbling at all BUT not so tight that it does not roll smoothly. This is a large bed 320x320mm so any looseness will mess up everything. THIS WAS way more DIFFICULT than it needed to be. To adjust the eccentric nuts below the bed, the supplied wrench was JUST barely long enough. On the left side it had to fit BETWEEN a leveling screw and the bed to get to the eccentric nut. What a pain. A 3 inch longer wrench would have made this much easier. All my other wrenches were too thick to slide between this tight space. After a couple of hours (no joke), I finally got the bed so the adjustment screws could work to get an OK level to set up the 7 point manual leveling. As per the manual you MUST do this BEFORE the auto leveling - so the unit has a good range to work with when doing the auto level. You may have to adjust your Z offset again before the auto level also. 5. Once the auto leveling is done you're almost ready to go. I suggest NOT using the sample filament that came with the machine - much too little to get a series of test prints done. The item on the test print - Buddha - is cute BUT it's the ELEGOO "perfectly" sliced sample. I think a group of simple test prints - available in the CURA set that comes with the printer can get you a great/Accurate value to you future prints. I did three calibration cubes with increasing accuracy, changing a couple of parameters each time. The last one was (on a 20MM cube) 20.01x20.00x20.01. can't do better than that. Temp and stringing tests should also be done before any project. Get the values you want and then get to it. MORE Benchies. Pluses - two WOWS 1. Feature set/construction - Heavy mostly metal build. Big print bed with PEI sheet. Great for print adhesion and removal. A Glass bed this big would be tough to handle easily anyway. Touch screen - big enough AND logically laid out with NOT to many sub set screens to wade thru. Also can be moved as you check out printer. Large deep feet - air flow around and below unit is good. Very stable unit with the braces making it totally solid, no wiggle or shaking. Direct drive extruder with run out sensor NOT on the extruder (less weight). Ribbon cable attachments - mostly just ONE main cable with smaller wiring off of it. LED lights on top of Gantry illuminate bed TOO well. They can be dimmed which is great 2. Operation WOW #2 - easy to follow sequence on touch screen with 4 main sections Print, Prepare, Settings, Level. Each with good subsets of routines to follow. Spool holder on top with run out sensor there. Uses a micro SD card or USB cable for input to printer. See below my thoughts re. micro SD. Tools that come with unit are OK. Scrapper is plastic , Allen keys OK, a couple of small screw drivers AND a tube of glue stick. Extra nozzles and some PTFE tube. Some zip ties to work out cable management. Printer size makes the cables very long. PEI sheet does need some maintenance - cleaning, etc. BUT a glass bed this big would be a beast to work with. I have not seen a PEI sheet of this exact size available yet as a future replacement. Aesthetically unit looks great. Braces on rear are NOT same color as bed, base of unit - an off blue color that's very appealing. Sound when in use is not bad BUT not so quiet as other printer I have. Cooling Fan is OK BUT at high rate it is kind of LOUD. Fan IN the unit was load when I first turned it on, as I've used it it has gotten quieter - lubrication worked into it? 3. little wow (not so impressive) Set up of bed before leveling was difficult for no real reason. Just needed a slightly longer wrench to get to eccentric nuts more easily. Manual does not have great English usage. uses phrases that are grammatically correct "eccentric isolation column" BUT NOT common usage. JUST SAY "eccentric nut". Some spelling errors too. Sorry - channeling an old English teacher from the last century (SIGH). Cable management not so great . Mostly due to size of print area BUT Use of SINGLE main ribbon cable for almost all attachments to bed means that is one small connection fails, entire MAIN cable must be replaced. "ONE Cable to rule them all" - depends on a GREAT cable. The main cable MUST be routed between the print head and base carefully to avoid the rear braces. I am going to figure out a way to support the cable (maybe from above or the side of the brace) so it does NOT just flop around - especially As a tall object is printed. To reduce strain on the ONLY cable. Touch screen is NOT sensitive. I am used to using a stylus - keeps the screen cleaner. Must use my old man fingers to get response. Unit could use a clip or two on the back of the bed to line up the PEI sheet better when it's replaced after cleaning, etc. Main (0ld man) GRIPE: Using a MICRO SD card for input - ubiquitous cards are easy to get BUT TINY to use. Card that came with the unit was IFFY at best. A print failed mid way due to a communication error . I had a read file problem with it the 3rd day in. A good thing I made a copy of the original card right away. Another printer I have uses USB, Full sized SD and USB cable for file use (Mingda Magician). Options make it easier IF there is a failure of card (or internal reader). Things to add: 1. LONGER wrench 2. A sound when the print is DONE. Mingda has an (annoying) beep when print finishes. Reminds me to "look over there damnit." 3. ALL Metal hot end - get rid of PTFE tube 4. A proofreader with command of English to fix language and spelling errors in documents. 5. MOST IMPORTANTLY Use of a full sized Sd card and ADD a USB port. The MicroSD card does not allow SUB directories for printing files. All files have to be loaded in the root directory to print. I like to have "toys", "Hardware", etc. directories so I can find files easily organize them. I know there is a lot of carping above BUT so far the ELEGOO NEPTUNE 3 PLUS has been a joy to deal with, in spite of my complaints. FIVE Stars for ELEGOO Neptune 3 PLUS. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 30, 2023 by Amazon Customer
    • Awesome printer easy setup. Not for beginners
Size: Neptune 3 Pro
Review Image by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
Review Image by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
Review Image by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
Review Image by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
Review Image by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
This 3D printer went together fast. In the box is a USB stick with SD card with videos on assembly and software. Install the Elegoo Cura (thats the program you use to output files onto your SD card to print). Then watch the assembly video if needed, but directions were pretty clear with pictographs. After assembling I made a few quick test prints and they came out phenomenal with factory settings. To be honest, I had purchased an Ender 3 pro before I got this printer. I was semi- familiar with the process of 3D printing due to this. I've had NOTHING but bad luck with the Ender. Wasted TONS of filament and time. This printer hasn't had a failed print yet... im impressed! The process of outputting files to your card is called "slicing". Then that "slice" must be saved to the SD card as a .gcode file. Then you pop the SD card into the Elegoo and navigate to the gcode file and print it. The Elegoo Cura software is the program you can make changes to the model and fine tune the settings. Temperature, speed of print, support structures, thickness of the lines etc. are all done through the cura software. Its fairly intuitive and little info windows pop up to tell you about the area your hovering over...very helpful. There are a few draw backs to this machine but none would be a deal breaker. 1. The print Head assembly is GIANT. This makes seeing smaller pieces being printed near impossible. The first few layers of a calibration cube for example are dwarfed by the enormous print head. Hard to check adhesion and print quality that way. 2. The slot to insert the SD card is inset into the machine under the front of the build plate. It's hard to get the card inserted especially for an old fart like myself. 3. You can NOT adjust the e-steps from the display pad. E-steps are the settings we use to "fine" tune the control motors. Y axis, X axis, and Z axis; Y being for and aft, X being right and left, Z being up and down. You can edjust the steps for filament dispensing but not the rest. In order to adjust and fine tune your printers e-steps you'd have to get software to output a programming gcode file. This means you'll need to learn a new software and programming style. It's not impossible but this isn't something you'll want to buy for gramma at Christmas as she will be lost. Hopefully in the future ELEGOO will update the firmware to include this ability. As for why it's important to adjust the e-steps... these control how far a motor is actually moving. Take a calibration cube for example. The dimensions of the finished cube are expected to be 20mm tall X 20mm high X 20mm wide. With an untuned e-step your cube may come out being 21mm X 19mm X 20.5 mm. This may not seem like a big deal, but in the grand scheme of things if we are printing items with threads or a certain diameter to fit into/onto something else we need them to print exact. Out of the box this printer was within a few tenths of a mm of being dead on. Make SURE to level your bed BEFORE you do anything. The bed must be at temperature and the nozzle at temperature as well. This is not in the instructions. If you set your level with them cold or room temp your plate to nozzle distance will decrease when you start a print. Things expand when you heat them and this will decrease the gap if you don't pre-heat. The second thing you need to do after leveling is measure and extrude some filament to set the e-step of the extruder. This will make sure your not pushing too much or too little filament out. Measure 120mm of filament from the top of the print head and make a mark there. Then after preheating the nozzle to the temp your filament needs to melt, command the printer to extrude 100mm of filament. Then measure the exact amount the filament traveled. Use that distance to calibrate your e-steps using this formula... yes you're going to get math on you. Your current e-steps programmed in the machine multiplied by 100 (thats the distance we wanted extruded). Take that number and divide it by the actual amount the filament traveled when you measured it. That number will be your new e-step setting. Once you've leveled the bed, and set your filament e-steps your ready to print. My first print was a threaded funnel for my new car. It threads in to where my oil cap is so I wanted to see how precise the prints were. See my pictures. Using default settings the print came out spectacular with nylon filament. True test was threading it into my car... it went right in with no issues. All in all this is an AWESOME printer. It BY FAR outperforms the Ender 3 pro. I've had the printer running non-stop for 4 days now and not a single issue with it. If your willing to tackle a bit of a learning curve with programming e-steps this could be an amazing printer. You will NOT be disappointed. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2023 by Professor Craig Donor Professor Craig Donor
    • Wonderful and inexpensive
Size: Neptune 3 Plus
I'm hesitant to write a review after two days, but it's been in almost continuous operation, and I'm impressed. I've had four printers, two early home-built, an SLA, and this machine. The homebuilts never ran well, and after ten years, I decided to just buy a commercial printer. This machine has impressed me. Assembly was quick and easy, although having a second person is ideal, the fit and finish is excellent, and the performance is remarkable. The use of extrusions and Acme threads for the Z-Axis create a rigid and repeatable system; this is critical for accuracy. I'm running ASA filament, so I'm worried about the PTFE, but since the Elegoo ASA prints well for me at 245, I'm hoping it holds up with the active cooling. It requires more than a little bit of learning, and all the calibration required by every machine is still here, but the auto bed leveling is so nice. Some notes: I wish they had a drop-in all metal hotend. I'll need it eventually. The poorly named "E-Pulse" menu option is for the E-Steps for the extruder, you'll probably need to adjust that (although the X/Y/Z seems calibrated from the factory). There is no support for PID on the bed. You can compile a custom firmware from the company, but apparently it makes the LEDs flicker. Finally, if you're doing ABS/ASA, just get an enclosure and filament drier now. Check the sizes in the images above, you'll need to be very selective in enclosures. Attaching an inexpensive ip-cam will allow you to monitor prints without sitting next to the printer all day. All in all, I couldn't be happier. I'll need an all-metal hot end eventually, but that's not something people using PLA or similar low-temperature filaments would ever need to worry about. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2024 by Amazon Customer

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