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Wagner Spraytech

Wagner Spraytech 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Paint or Stain Sprayer, Complete Adjustability for Decks, Cabinets, Furniture and Woodworking, Extra Container included, Yellow/Black

    • Based on 5,586 reviews
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Availability: In Stock.
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Arrives Saturday, Sep 21
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Style: Control Spray Max


Features

  • HVLP PAINT SPRAYER: The Control Spray Max paint sprayer uses high volume, low pressure technology to atomize materials into fine particles and provide a smooth finish on door trim, decks, furniture, more
  • USE WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF MATERIALS: Powerful two-stage turbine makes it easy to paint walls and surfaces with thinned latex paints and thinner materials like stains and poly
  • ADJUSTABLE SETTINGS: Customize your paint flow by using the pressure control dial and material flow adjuster to receive the perfect finish every time. Turn the air cap to spray round, horizontal, or vertical
  • GREAT DESIGN: The stationary base is connected to the spray gun with a 20 ft. hose to easily reach your painting project and reduce hand fatigue. Also includes a 1 12 qt. cup and professional grade metal 1 qt. cup

Description

The Control Spray Max provides a smooth, consistent finish in less time than traditional painting methods. The controls give you the ability to adjust based on the project you’re working on and the type of material being used, which are features that a spray can or brush can’t offer! The spray patterns range from 1/2" to 12" wide depending on the settings, which allow for optimum control and precision for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray. Package includes a Control Max sprayer, 1 qt. metal cup, 1.5 qt. plastic cup, 20 ft. hose, viscosity cup and user manual. From the Manufacturer The Control Spray Max sprays materials in patterns from 1/2" to 12" wide with optimum control and precision making it superior to brushes and spray cans for fine finish work. HVLP technology uses a high volume of air at low pressure to atomize materials into fine particles. This results in a professional finish, with virtually no overspray.

Brand: Wagner Spraytech


Tank Volume: 1.5 Quarts


Color: Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: 20 ft. hose, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle See more


Material: Plastic, Metal


Brand: ‎Wagner Spraytech


Tank Volume: ‎1.5 Quarts


Color: ‎Yellow/Black


Recommended Uses For Product: ‎20 ft. hose, Use with a variety of materials, Variable aire pressure control, Adjustable flow control with 3 spray patterns, Superior nozzle


Material: ‎Plastic, Metal


Item Weight: ‎5.1 Kilograms


Product Dimensions: ‎12"W x 18.5"H


Style: ‎Control Spray Max


Power Source: ‎AC/DC


Included Components: ‎Sprayer, Metal Cup, Plastic Cup, User Manual., Hose


Model Name: ‎Control Spray Max, Control Spray Double Duty and Control Spray


Hose Length: ‎240 Inches


UPC: ‎172304346044 872182815730 080850317329 100177418544 021112826692 763615760683 716080067405 072080017353 024964194964 051020034193 752913147326 651256045354 191120025209 151902999838 351428773442 803982727404 172302816594


Global Trade Identification Number: ‎64,


Manufacturer: ‎Wagner Spraytech


Part Number: ‎Control Spray Max


Item Weight: ‎11.22 pounds


Country of Origin: ‎China


Item model number: ‎0518080


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Size: ‎Control Spray Max


Pattern: ‎Painter


Shape: ‎Circular


Voltage: ‎120 Volts


Item Package Quantity: ‎1


Special Features: ‎Washable


Batteries Included?: ‎No


Batteries Required?: ‎No


Warranty Description: ‎1 Year


Date First Available: June 18, 2010


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Saturday, Sep 21

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

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View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Great Sprayer for the DIYer
Style: Control Spray Max
I bought this quite awhile back (a little over a year ago), so I have used this item a lot. I now have a more expensive (10X the cost) HVLP rig, but I have found that this little Wagner gun is so MUCH more VERSATILE and EASIER to use, that I use this one more often than the expensive one. I can spray oil-based paints and primers, as well as water-based products, with hardly any effort. Cleaning up is fast and easy, too. You CAN get a 100% perfect, professional finish IF you take your time, read and re-read the manual, and you practice with it, first. Do not expect to pull it out of the box, fill it, spray with it, and have perfect results. I suggest that you gather lots of cardboard and buy a can (quart or gallon) of cheap paint (the same type as your first project requires (water- or oil-based)). Then, buy the appropriate diluent (read the paint can), the compatible additive (i.e., Penetrol for oil-based paints and Floetrol for water-based paints). While you're at the paint store (or you are on Amazon.com) pick up some medium size (pertaining to particle filtration size, not overall size) disposable paint filters. My two spray painting mantras are, "Practice does make perfect!" and "Paint additives can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD between a professional-looking paint job, and just an awful looking paint job!" That's it in a nutshell, but I've written at length about the first time I used this sprayer. If what I learned can help you get great results on your first project, it may be worth the time it takes to read: My first project was not the smartest one to choose as a first project to paint with a spray gun. It was the wainscoting and trim in my dining room. But, it came out so perfect, that even after a year, the glassy, smooth, sprayed surfaces still impresses me so much, I cannot believe I did them! But, back then, I didn't know any better, so I thought I would just start right in with the painting, buying the exact same paint and color (Sherwin Williams Alkyd) the installers had used. I lightly sanded all of the wainscoting and trim, as best I could, to scuff up the surfaces. I also used a liquid deglosser, since sanding detailed trim is thankless, tedious work. But, most of all, I spent a lot of time caulking (using PAINTABLE caulk) areas that had pulled apart from "settling," or that were not properly caulked by the installers in the first place. I let the caulk dry thoroughly. Actually, it was all the cracks and crevices in the joined edges of the woodwork caused by improper (or complete lack of) caulking, and some due to settling, that had caused the need to paint the trim and wainscotting. Next, I started in with the viscosity tests. I used paint thinner first, but then I read up on additives. So, I switched to using a combination of paint thinner and Penetrol (by Flood, purchased at Lowes). I can't recall the exact ratio of paint thinner to Penetrol I ended up using, but I think it would be safe to say about half and half. Of course, paint thinner was what my product called for as a thinning agent. Paint additives, like Floetrol and Penetrol, help produce a smooth, glassy finish. The additives can help make up for a multitude of sins! For example, if you did not properly adjust your air/paint flow, you could end up with a painted surface that has an orange peel texture (a common problem). If it's not too bad, the additives themselves can make that problem completely disappear! But, that's not too surprising, because one of their purposes is to reduce, or eliminate, brush marks! Once I had all of my paint thinner and Penetrol added in order to achieve an acceptable viscosity test, I was alarmed at how much I had diluted the paint! I had definitely diluted it beyond what the manufacturer had recommended (as stated on the can). Thankfully, I was worried enough that I decided to practice on some cardboard, rather than on the dining room walls, first, as I had planned on doing after reading all of the positive reviews here, thinking I could just spray the walls and get great results! And, although it didn't take long before I was able to get a nice, smooth coating on the cardboard, I am really thankful I did! I would have been scraping and sanding walls, for sure! I also stood the cardboard up vertically, like the surface I would be spraying (vertical surfaces are much harder to spray without getting drips and runs), so I could get a feel for how much paint I could apply before getting runs. It wasn't very much! I had to keep the gun moving relatively quickly. But, by then, I had to send my husband back to Sherwin-Williams for another can of paint, just to be sure I would have enough paint! Before getting to the viscosity tests, though, I had basically turned my dining room into a giant spray booth, but without an explosion-proof fan mounted in the window! I covered the windows, ceiling, and upper walls with plastic, masking off all of the edges. I also taped plastic over the two doorways, masking around all of the edges of EVERYTHING. I used thick plastic drop cloths on the floor, but I goofed by not taping them down as securely as I should have. So, I had to stop and do some clean-up and remedial taping when I saw that the air coming out of the nozzle was blowing up the edges of the plastic! Naturally, I used a respirator, and was covered head-to-toe in disposable painting attire. The air was thick with paint mist when I did paint. But, I expected that in the enclosed space. I put on a total of four coats, as I thought with all of the diluting, they would be thin coats. They were, but I wouldn't say that was a bad thing! I don't own a mill gauge (something I just recently learned about!), so I couldn't tell you how thick each coat was, but they were thick enough to cover bare wood without being transparent enough to see the wood grain show through, but not so thick that it would cause runs or drips. I always sprayed a small piece of cardboard, leaving it in the dining room, but near the opening, so I could easily check when the paint was dry enough to recoat, without touching the trim or walls themselves. It dried much quicker than I had anticipated, given all of the dilution. I did get a couple of runs, but I just sanded them off when the paint had dried enough to produce a powder when sanded, and not rub or rip. Of course, I sprayed these areas again. Even with the massive amount of prep work required (most of it would have still been required if I was brushing-on the paint, such as all of the caulking), the amount of time It took to spray, clean-up, dry, spray, clean-up, etc., was only a fraction of that time that would have been required for me to brush on all of the coats! The results were, as I said, spectacular. Today, the wainscoting and trim still look as fantastic as they did the day II had finished painting them. I was worried the dilution of the paint would have affected the wear or appearance of the surfaces, but it did not. So, I would never be afraid to dilute paint more than stated by the manufacturer on the can. Not being a paint professional, I do not know how they arrive at those figures, but for myself, I would always dilute the product according to what is recommended in the sprayer manual (using viscosity cup and timing the flow), and not what is stated on the can. But, I always read the can of the product I am using, because it tells me what to use in order to thin the product (the diluent). For oil-based PRIMERS, I use only the recommended diluent or solvent, and I omit the additive (Penetrol). To date, I have not used water-based PRIMERS, but I would probably only use distilled water for the diluent (unless the can stated to use another type of diluent, that isn't water). A shellac-based PRIMER would probably call for denatured alcohol as the diluent. Again, always defer to the can/manufacturer for the diluent to use, but defer to the sprayer manual for the proper dilution rate (using the viscosity cup). For water-based paints, I use a mixture of one part distilled water and one part Floetrol (50-50) to dilute the paint. I also use a medium filter for all paints and primers, and it is the last thing I do before I spray paint. Disposable filters are cheap, so I use a fresh, new filter when I fill or refill my sprayer cup. If I fill the cup three times during a project, I've used three filters. I always gather some cardboard to use to warm-up on, and, most importantly, to help me fine-tune the settings on the sprayer, so that I achieve the best finish possible. If your paint is properly diluted, and your spray is properly adjusted, I just don't think you will be ever be unhappy with the results. Thoroughly cleaning up your equipment as soon as you are finished painting is also extremely important. If you have a tiny, dried, speck of paint in the nozzle, you will not get good results. I have found those really thick pipe cleaners (oh, excuse me, I mean CHENILLE STEMS) are invaluable as an aid to cleaning out the inside of the slanted plastic tube that is inserted into the paint cup. Some other tips I've learned include spray painting early in the morning, when there is less likely to be a breeze, if I am painting something outside. Avoid spraying in direct sunlight, too. Finally, if there is a result that is not to your liking, Google it to find a solution to the problem. I have learned so much from doing this, and watching Youtube videos, too. If all else fails, call the manufacturer because there is always a small chance you could have a defective part that needs to be replaced. Dilute and practice with your cheap practice paint. If you can achieve a great finish on your cardboard (make sure the cardboard has a smooth surface to begin with, too!) using your cheap paint, you will surely be able to get an amazing finish with your higher quality paints and finishes. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on September 26, 2013 by My3Sons
    • At first I thought I would return it, but it worked really well
Style: QX5
The description of this product on Amazon seemed a bit deceptive, as it stated it was good for spraying paint, but when it arrived, the package seemed to imply it was only meant to spray stains and thin laquers. The material inside the box said it could spray paint, but only if it was thinned, It turned out just fine spraying thinned or unthinned exterior acrylic enamel and did a terrific job on the entire house (around 10 gallons applied and still going strong). It took a lot of refilling because of the small reservoir, but it wasn't too bad. A pro would definitely want to spring for one of the larger ones, but it held up well and I'm sure I'll use this on many more painting tasks around the house in the future. And it's pretty quiet, easy to get the hang of and didn't seem to clog. It was easy to clean. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 10, 2024 by Jeffrey H Mumford
    • Works well and does as advertised
Style: Control Spray Max
Sorry for this being so long, however I want to give people a good idea what to expect from a product like this since the reviews are all over the place and I was skeptical about making this purchases based on those reviews. If you only read the good one, you would think this was the best product around, if you only read the bad ones, you would think it was the worst. Also people slamming a product because Amazon screw up or they did not realize what they bought is not a review of the product. First the Review------- For this product (Wagner 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer) I will focus on Latex/water based paints since that is what I used and because most people use this to paint their house. Personally for anything where you are looking for a glass smooth finish as you would see on a car, such as moldings, cabinets and furniture I would say a automotive suction or HVLP sprayer with air compressor with pressure regulators and the such is still the best. I bought this product due to the fact I was working on a home project requiring me to paint close to 2000 sqft covering ceiling and walls. Due to sheet rock work, they had to be primed as well, therefore, painting 2000 sqft twice. I also did not want to deal with all the paint dust which I have dealt with in the past and generally a HVLP paint sprayer generates very low over spray and paint dust in the air. Unlike my other sprayers this gun only has one nozzle size, therefore, you can only control the paint flow (the knob adjustment on the gun trigger) and the air pressure/velocity (the dial on back of the air turbine unit). Because of this you have to play with getting the paint viscosity right. As some people pointed out, the gun's instruction for Latex said to refer to paint manufacturer's instruction and some paint tells you to thin according to your gun's instruction. I can see if you never painted with a sprayer like this how this could be frustrating. It not as simple as one method works for all kinds. In my case I was using a higher end paint (not a box store paint) so the quality and quantity of the latex in the paint is better and more uniform and this paint did not come with any thinning instruction since they assume you know what you are doing. I figured I need to thin the paint and was not an issue for me. I filled the canister with 3/4 paint then add shot glass of water and mixed it, kept doing it until it appeared thin enough. (I know that is not very exact or specific, but it does take playing with it to see what works) Since my previous experience with spraying was with airless or suction type I knew the paint had to be fairly thin to spray without splattering or clumping as people described. Knowing this was HVLP gun and seeing it had a fairly larger nozzle I figured it did not need to be thin too much since HVLP guns pressurize the canister to help get the paint to the nozzle. This held true, I only had to put in a couple of shot glasses of warm water to get it right, I suspected that it may have sprayed without thinning due to the quality of the paint and even the store professional suggest I may not need to thin. I know some people said you need to use an additive like Floetrol or paint leveler/extender, I can tell you for flat latex I never used those products and never had a problem spraying using just water. I did spend a little time playing with the air pressure and the amount of paint coming out of nozzle to get it right, I has the air pressure set to half way between mid and max and paint flow to max unless I was painting near an edge of something then i set it closer to min. NOTE on Thinning: I did see this with this gun, Adding water and stirring it with a stick is not enough, I suggest after you put the canister on the gun sealed it tight and shake it to make sure the paint and warm water is well mixed. If not the heaver paint will settle to the bottom where the feed tube is and you will get splattering of the paint since it is too think. If you stop painting and let the gun sit with paint in it for a period of time, shake and mix the paint again before spraying. I used the gun to spray the ceiling and walls, I had no problem painting the ceiling, which was a surprise since I did it at an angle and any time you spray the nozzle should be parallel to the painting surface. Also it was 8 ft ceiling and the gun says you should be no more than 10 inch from the surface and I was over 12 and the paint went on nicely. One of the complaints that I read was about coverage. I not sure if people expect the gun to cover the entire area in one pass of the gun, it does not and will not, if it does, then to much paint is coming out at once and this could lead to runs. I personally never use a spray gun which cover in one pass unless too much paint is coming out or you were not more the gun at the correct speed. This spay gun was no different, it put down a nice first coat cover on the walls, I would say it cover a section of the wall with 3 passes of gun which is what I would expect. I was able to paint a 12' by 21' ceiling in about 30 minutes which include filling the canister 3 times. and cover about 400 sqft of wall in about the same time. I did not use a paint shield between surfaces like the ceiling and walls since I we putting modeling up. However edge of this gun's spray pattern are not that clean or sharp you get lots of feathering of the paint so you can not get too close to adjacent surfaces without specks of paint getting on the other surface. In some cases I used a paint brush near those edges or I masked them off with Pre-taped Painter's Plastic (ready-mask) to avoid the over spray. You can reduce the spread of the spray by adjusting the pressure/speed of the air on the main unit, this does help with how much over stray you get but you may need to thin the paint more and you run the risk or paint runs then. As others have mentioned, when you release the trigger the air keeps coming out of the nozzle which is kind of odd if you not use to this. This is not a big deal but I notice that if you stop spraying and let the air run for a period of time like a minute or so and there is drip of paint on the nozzle it will dry and cause the paint not to come out the nozzle. The air from the main units it fair warm so it does cause any paint on the nozzle to dry fairly quickly if you are not continuously painting. I had to remove the dried paint a couple of time to get the paint to come out the nozzle. The other thing to watch out with this sprayer is the fact it pressurized the canister and it will stay pressurize for a period of time even after you turn off the main unit. If this happen, and you pull the trigger paint will spray out and possibly onto something you did not want paint on, like yourself. Eventually the pressure will bleed off, but it is not immediately. You have been warned. Clean up was very quick an easy. Wagner used plastic which the paint does not stick to it very well. which making washing it off very easy. I tend to like to keep my tools very clear so this was a big plus for me since it only took 5 minutes to get all the paint out and off the gun. Also there was very little dried paint dust in the room and it did not fill the room with a moist mist of plant like I have seen in the past. My clothes did not have any paint on them and I would not recommend this but you probably could have painted without a mas if you like if you in a well ventilated area. Overall, I would say this sprayer meet or exceed my expectation, it had no problem painting with Latex as long as spend a little time thin it properly. I am not sure why some people say it does not work with latex, I can only assume they did not thin it properly and it was really thick. I am not sure if I would use it for my molding since I did notice the mist particle sizes did vary a lot and when doing molding with high gloss you want a nice smooth layer of paint otherwise it may look like you painted with a roller. Texture on a wall is actually fine if you are painting flat, but texture on a molding looks bad. I give it 4 stars since it had a few quirts I would like to see changed, first the air hose popped out a few times, it should have some sort of locking mechanism and the fact the canister stays pressurized after the air is removed or turned off. Some background information if you interested in reading this much To put my review in prospective since I not sure what most people backgrounds are and whether or not they have experience with products like this or they have unrealistic or low expectations of products. I am not a professional, meaning I do not do painting for a living. However, I do most all my own work on my home, cars and such, and I have high expectation for my own work. Most of what I know is self taught, through experience or from doing lots of research. Therefore, my knowledge is limited to all the rooms I painted in my house and the few cars I painted. Therefore I have use brushes, rollers, sprayers and paints of various types and from different manufacturers. The types of sprayers I have used in the past and I generally do not like using them in the house due to all the paint dust you get all over the place. I have used what is known as Suction Gun (automotive) as well as a Buzz Guns (airless) in the past and had mixed results with both types doing household work. The buzz gun worked well on things which tend to be hard to paint with a roller or bush such as the old style popcorn ceilings and I only used my suction gun on doors and moldings since it gives a glass like finish similar to a car. The reason for the mix results from what I found out was due to the manufacturer and type of paint and getting the viscosity right. Painting flat/matte finishes walls the viscosity is not as important as painting trim/molding with a high gloss. What works for one manufacturer/paint type does not always work for others. With that said I had to play around with guns nozzle size, air pressure, flow rate and the paint itself to get the paint to come out exactly as I needed. Today I have a pretty good idea how to set up the spray guns to get the paint to spray correctly and I personally only used warm water to thin water based paints. I can not tell you how much warm water since it depends on the paint some require more or less as well as the gun itself. You can usually get a good idea whether you need more if the paint appears to be thick. Just remember you an always add more water, so start out with less and add more as you need. Once paint gets too thin it will become very hard to paint and will not adhere to the wall or the surface and you will get runs all over the place. I found that it actually take less water than you think to get it to spray. Up to this point I never used a sprayer to paint entire room I only used rollers and brushes. I only sprayed doors and trim/molding which were not installed. I would paint them first then install the molding and touch up the nail spots, it goes a lot fast this way. I usually paint them outside to avoid the over spray dust and such. I mainly painted with semi or high glass so when the the paint drys it look nice and smooth with no bush or roller marks. I had professional painter ask me how did I get my doors and molding so smooth and when I told them I sprayed it they did not believe until I showed them the sprayer which was an higher end automotive paint gun. Based on this I do not think you can get a glass smooth finish from one of HVLP Home sprayer so I would not set your expectation that high, it maybe a little better than a brush with paint extender or floetrol. I hope this helps people and gives people a good idea what they are buyings ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 12, 2014 by gpalermo

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