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Micro-Swiss

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO/CR-10 Max

    • Based on 283 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Tuesday, Nov 26
Order within 14 hours and 33 minutes
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Features

  • Fits: CR-10S Pro / CR-10 Max
  • Orifice size: .4mm
  • Kit Includes: Aluminum Cooling Block, Grade 5 Titanium Heat Break, Aluminum Heater Block, Brass Plated Wear Resistant MK8 .4mm Nozzle, Silicone Sock, Hardware kit
  • This is a Drop in All Metal Conversion Kit for CR-10s PRO and CR-10 Max printers
  • Made in USA by Micro Swiss

Description

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10s PRO: This is a drop in All Metal Conversion kit for the CR-10s Pro printers. It requires absolutely zero modification to your printer to install. Our uniquely designed cooling block eliminates need for a thermal tube. By not having a separate thermal tube inside the cooling block, it allows for faster heat dissipation. The thermal heat break is made from Grade 5 Titanium Alloy to provide excellent thermal isolation between the heater and the cooling block. Titanium is extremely strong material and offers almost 3x lower thermal conductivity than stainless steel, creating more defined meltzone. Read more Fits: Creality CR-10s ProCreality CR-10 Max Read more What's in the box: Aluminum Cooling BlockGrade 5 Titanium Heat BreakAluminum Heater BlockBrass Plated Wear Resistant MK8 .4mm NozzleSilicone SockHardware kit Read more Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .4mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .6mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 Brass Plated .8mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .4mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .6mm Nozzle Micro Swiss MK8 A2 Plated .8mm Nozzle Base Material Brass Brass Brass A2 Hardened Tool Steel A2 Hardened Tool Steel A2 Hardened Tool Steel Plated ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓


Product Dimensions: ‎3.54 x 2.56 x 1.38 inches; 2.12 Ounces


Item Weight: ‎2.12 ounces


Manufacturer: ‎Micro Swiss LLC


Item model number: ‎M2591-04


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: ‎No


Date First Available: ‎November 4, 2016


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Tuesday, Nov 26

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Easy Drop in For Ender 3!
This all metal hot end is very easy to install. 5 stars. Could not be happier. This requires no alteration of the software. The only difference that your printer will notice is that this hot end is 3mm shorter then the stock hot-end. On the Ender 3 this is trivial because all you have to do is re-level the bed. The entire point of this hot-end is to eventually complete the upgrades to be able to print at high temperature for Nylon and Polycabonate. If that is not your end goal you should be good with the stock hot-end. I would consider upgrading anyways. This hot end is just beautiful and it is very obvious when you see it in person that it is a high quality piece of machinery and it definitely makes my 3d printer far far sexier. This upgrade alone will NOT allow you to print at high temperatures. In addition to this you will need 1. A glass Bed: other beds like magnetic will lose their magnetism at the required higher temperatures. 2. A k Type thermocouple. If you have an Ender 3 original board you will NOT be able to have a BL Touch and The K Type thermocouple because of a lack of free pins. The K type thermocouple is required to read the higher temperatures. The original temperature sensor is a thermister but this has too high a voltage error at high temperature so a change of technology is required. The K type thermocouple will also require a daughter board (sold separately) to communicate with the Ender 3 stock control board. A new revision for the Ender 3 stock board has come around April 11th 2019 out but I am not too familiar with the changes except the upgrade to non crappy and much more silent stepper drivers. If you want the BL touch and the K type thermocouple you're going to have to upgrade to a board with more pins and memory. I suggest the MKS Type L board and don't forget to buy the stepper drivers which are removable. (list continued) 3. One Meter Capricorn Boden Tubing. The stock Boden Tubing is Teflon and it will vaporize into hazardous airborne toxins when upped to temperatures needed for Nylon and PC. 4. An Enclosure. The constant warm temperature needs to be reached while printing the high temperature materials or they will warp and not print well or have good adhesion. Also it will be helpful if the enclosure is fireproof in case there is any accident. A brief overview of the installation of this part on the Ender 3 is as follows. This does not include the K Type Thermocouple Upgrade. Brief Installation Instructions 1: Remove the two screws that are holding the two fans over the hot-end. This will expose the hot-end. 2: Unscrew the hot-end so it is off the rail. 3: Undo the screw that is holding a metal tube that is the heater. 4: undo the screw that is holding the temperature sensor. 5: The metal tube heater and temperature sensor should now slide out. 6: Put the temperature sensor and heater into the matching holes on the micro swiss hot-end. 7: Unscrew the top of the original hot-end to release the bowden tubing and then pull it out. 8: The old hot-end should now be free and should be stored for a rainy day. 9: Mount the top part of the Microswiss Hot-end the way the old one was. 10: Attach the bottom of the Microswiss Hot-end known as the heat break with the included screw. 11: Shove the Bowden Tube into the MicroSwiss Hot-end until it wont go any Farther. It'll hold with friction alone. 12: Screw on the nozzle loosely. The nozzle is hardened steel good for printing abrasive materials like nylon and glow in the dark materials. 13: Reattach the Fan Enclosure 13: Bring the microswiss up to temperature and finish tightening the hot-end once its hot. Just a bit of pressure is good. 14: Don't Forget to re-level the bed as the new nozzle is 3mm higher than the old one. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 12, 2019 by Valentina Dangerfield
    • Great easy mod
This went on my CR10S Pro V2 and it worked exactly how you'd expect. Virtually no difference with the stock one except I can safely print at higher temps now. I have another printer with the works. A bondtech e3d volcano setup as direct drive and prints great. I wanted something a little easier to setup this time. This filled the void with the CR10S Pro V2 Prints just fine and works nearly as well as the direct drive when your slicing parameters are correctly set. Was swapped over in less than 10 minutes. It's recommended you do a PID autotune, my values were slightly different than the stock hotend. Unless you're doing some really exotic stuff I'd recommend this over going through the headache of swapping over to something a little better. If you're looking to go the works, look into an E3D Hemera. It's not cheap but about as good as it gets. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 16, 2020 by mjo41232
    • Great hotend! Would buy again! Kind cust service
I was quite concerned about switching since I still do use PLA and PETG quite a bit. I thought I would have to wait until I got another printer in order to have one installed with an all metal hot end and keep the other stock for PLA and PETG, but I was quite wrong. Very happy with this product. I have gotten one or two clogs, but without the capricorn tube digging all the way through the cooling block, it is a sinch to simply pop off the tube and use some nylon filament to remove the jam with a hot pull. Again though, the jams are not happening ANYWHERE near as much as many reviews made me fear before I bought this. Only thing I do recommend is that you play with the heat settings yourself. They recommend that you increase the temp by about 5 to 10 degrees after making this switch but I found that my materials do better with 5 degrees less. They come out much cleaner and very well fused. Not sure if it's just my hot end is a bit hot, but since I did decrease the temp I have not had a clog. Also huge huge huge important part to this is the retraction. Remember to both reduce your retraction and to tinker with your retraction speed and restart distance (distance that the printer starts at after a retraction). There is no perfect setting, you just need to tinker with it a bit. It will make your life so much easier by making sure you don't end with tons of clogs and that your prints look clean and tidy without stringing. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 21, 2019 by German
    • Two out of three ain't bad
Review Image by Boring Boss Boring Boss
I've purchased three of these for my Creality printers, I bought the latest one August 9th 2019. Three major flaws in the latest one. 1. The Bowden tube can slide out randomly, within the first minute or two of printing. 2. The set screw does not keep the heating block from rotating. 3. Filament is extruded through the thermistor hole. A minor fourth complaint would be the heat break ID was really tight on all the filament I tried to run through it cold. I've seen this with other heat breaks and have a drill bit that cleans up whatever is left over from machining. So this wasn't as bad a problem as the three above. I love my other Micro Swiss all-metals but am leery of buying any more if their manufacturing quality is lower than the first few I purchased. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2020 by Boring Boss Boring Boss

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