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HOLGA

Holga 120N Plastic Camera

    • Based on 425 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: Only 8 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Tuesday, Nov 5
Order within 20 hours and 17 minutes
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Color: Black


Features

  • 2 film masks for either 12- 6x6 cm images or 16- 6x4.5cm images
  • Shutter Speeds: (N)ormal - 1/100s; (B)ulb - Holds Shutter Open
  • Apertures: SUNNY - f/11; SHADE/FLASH - f/8
  • Hot shoe adapter, Standard Tripod Mount (1/4-20), Uses 120 medium format film
  • Lens cap, Strap

Description

The Holga 120N is BACK! The Holga camera was initially introduced to the Chinese public, in 1982, as an inexpensive camera for everyday use. Shortly after its introduction, it became an underground artistic phenomena. Using the Holga is an exercise in breaking free from dependence on technology, precision and controllability. The slight softness of the images, vignetting and random light leaks produce dream-like, one-of-a kind images. The current Holga 120N is modeled after the original Holga camera and features the improved usability found in the latest generations.

Optical Zoom: 4.6 Inches


Brand: HOLGA


Model Name: Holga 120N Plastic Medium Format Camera – Black


Exposure Control Type: Automatic


Color: Black


Shooting Modes: Shutter Priority


Item Weight: 12 Ounces


Skill Level: Amateur


Compatible Devices: camera


Continuous Shooting Speed: 30 fps


Auto Focus Technology: Contrast Detection


Video Standard: AVI


Expanded ISO Maximum: 25600


Exposure Control Type: Automatic


Shooting Modes: Shutter Priority


Model Name: Holga 120N Plastic Medium Format Camera – Black


Brand: HOLGA


Model Number: 144120


Color: Black


Included Components: 6x6cm and 6x4.5cm Adapters ,Neck Strap


Assembly Required: No


Optical Zoom: 4.6 Inches


Focus Type: Fixed Focus


Batteries Required?: No


Are Batteries Included: No


Rechargeable Battery Included: No


Target Gender: Unisex


Compatible Devices: camera


Continuous Shooting Speed: 30 fps


Skill Level: Amateur


Item Dimensions LxWxH: 1 x 1 x 1 inches


Item Weight: 12 Ounces


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Tuesday, Nov 5

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Holga at it`s Best!
Color: Black w/ Flash
A wonderful fun camera to capture images with on 120 film. Planning on using this camera in square format! With it`s glass lens images will be crisp and great!
Reviewed in the United States on May 14, 2024 by Kathryne Winkler
    • My favorite film camera
Color: Black
This little plastic camera is a must for any film photographer. I have two of them. It's lightweight, small, and can take great pictures. I've used this for everything from landscapes, to portraits, to shoots with a professional lighting setup. The "hot" shoe on top DOES work so long as you have an external power source for the flash. I love the simplicity of the camera, in that pretty much any "ailment" can be fixed with some electrical tape. It's possible to rig the camera up to take 35mm film with some tape and pieces of sponge. This camera has a great ability to make things looks very surreal and/or ethereal. It is also good if you're going for that "hipster" style of photo. If you get a tripod and some 100 speed film it can create absolutely beautiful prints. With a little bit of practice it's easy to guess the focus (which is labeled with either one person, three people, a group of people, or mountains) and get as crisp of shots as you can really hope for with a plastic lens. The plastic adds a soft look, but it's still in focus and the softness can really add to the image. The vignetting is controllable in that if you take out the little frame in the camera, you get more light leaks and vignetting. With some electrical tape the vignetting can be decreased. The viewfinder is totally useless, and I highly recommend you just toss the lens cover since it's very easy to forget it's there and wind up with a blank roll. This camera is set up to be used with a tripod and flash if you want, and because it takes 120 film, you'll be able to get smoother photos than with 35 mm. The simplicity and lack of features makes it very easy to experiment with pictures. You can overlap frames, double exposures are a snap, and there are only two shutter speeds. N for normal (approx. 1/100th of a second, plenty fast for handheld) or B for bulb (meaning you can hold it open). This camera is great for capturing motion because shooting in bulb is so easy. The plastic lens gives a soft feel to everything so the shake from holding your camera and bumping it around a bit can actually add to the feeling of movement. The camera claims to have two apertures (cloudy and sunny), but it really doesn't. It stays at f/11, or possibly f/8 depending on your camera. In short, this is one of the best film cameras you can find and anybody can get amazing and interesting shots. I highly recommend it. It can be a little frustrating with the lack of control at first, but after several rolls it becomes second nature. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2010 by No Name
    • Plastic Paintbrush
Color: Black
This thing really got me back into photography. I've been working as a professional photographer for the last few years in the world of digital, which has become quite routine and often boring. I picked up this toy camera as a way of getting into film photography for the first time and to my surprise, it totally shifted the way I took pictures and reminded me of what I loved about photography in the first place. Often times you get images that look more like paintings than photographs. I also began developing my own film and printing in the darkroom, opening up a whole new world. I really enjoy the imperfect pictures that it takes and b/c the aperture and shutter are fixed, you have to find new ways to make the picture interesting. No more relying on fancy lens' with zooms, forget about focusing, all you've got is a pastic box with a hole in the middle, now make it happen! You'll be surprised at what turns up in the dark! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 28, 2012 by Jonny Utah
    • A non-hipster photo student's impressions
Color: Black
I'm a photo student. I'm studying everything about photography. I'm not an urban hipster. I don't look like an urban hipster. I have absolutely no inherent "lo-fi" photography bias due to some sort of artsy hipster social background. It's just something that I'm messing with because I'm sleeping, eating, and breathing all sorts of photography 24-7. I bought this because it's the prototypical "crappy toy camera" and I wanted to see what I could do with it's limited capabilities. It's part of an optional assignment and I'm playing with film right now, so why not. The first thing that everyone should know is that this is not really a toy or an inexpensive alternative camera, but rather a modern "remake" of a primitive camera intended to allow those who understand, or are learning to understand, the photographic process in detail to reproduce certain "vintage" photographic styles and push the limits of what can be done with primitive technology. The Holga 120N has the following features for "advanced" photographers: - They use medium format 120 roll film. This is film that is a little more than 6cm wide... it is NOT 35mm. Normally this film is used in expensive Hasselblad or Mamiya cameras and is thus not usually sold at drug stores and gas stations. Not every photo lab will process it. - There IS a "bulb" exposure mode, which means that you can keep the shutter open as long as you keep holding down the shutter button. You have to know what you're doing with this or all you'll do is waste a shot of film. - Whether "bulb" mode is turned on or off, there's nothing stopping you from exposing the film multiple times without advancing the roll. There's also nothing stopping you from advancing the film too far, too little, or never advancing it at all. Other than the little window on the back, and perhaps counting the clicks of the film winder, there's nothing to tell you how far to turn the thing to get to the next unexposed frame. There's absolutely nothing to tell you if the current frame has already been exposed. These are all things that can be exploited by advanced photographers to create interesting effects, but for anyone else they're just annoying hazards. Limitations of the camera that can only be overcome by a somewhat knowledgeable photographer in most situations: - There are only two aperture settings. To make things worse, the f-numbers that these supposedly correspond to (supposedly f/8 for "sunny" and f/11 for "cloudy" or whatever that icon is supposed to be) are reportedly bogus. They may not be accurate from camera to camera, depending on when it was made. Reportedly all you ever get is f/13, though supposedly on some newer ones the switch actually does do something or the other. - There's only one shutter speed not counting "bulb" mode: 1/100s - There's no way to focus visually with the viewfinder and with apertures like f/8 or f/11 the focus ring has to be set somewhat intelligently to have any chance of getting a subject within the in-focus depth of field. - Aside from using bulb mode or multiple exposures in some situations, you have practically no control of the exposure aside from film ISO and push/pull processing. If you don't know what I'm talking about, but do want to learn then great! If you don't know and don't care then you probably don't want to buy this camera. The charming lo-fi features of the camera: - It has a simplistic high-dispersion plastic lens that softens focus the way transparent plastic does and does little or nothing to correct for the various optical distortions caused by simple spherical single-element lenses. If you're not trying to intentionally take photos with these properties then for the same money you can get a camera with a more modern design that at least has a lens made of glass. - There's little or nothing in the design to prevent light from reflecting off of slick surfaces inside the camera, contaminating the film with random reflections. - The gaps between parts (like the back and the rest of the camera) aren't sealed particularly well, so light leaks through and reflects off of surfaces, contaminating the film with stray light. Some tips for those using these for the first time: - Tape down the sliding things that lock the back on after loading the camera. The back will come open way too easily if you don't. Light leaks may be hipster cool but having the back come off just results in totally ruined film. - Light will leak through the little frame number view window (red plastic) in the back and contaminate regular panchromatic film (which responds to red light). How bad this is depends on how bright the ambient light is, and whether or not you're using one of the included (6x6 or 6x4.5) film masks. You can either ignore than and get the hipster light leaks, or you can cover the red window with tape. If you cover it then you can either open it up briefly under subdued light to see when you've advanced the film one frame, or you can figure out how many "clicks" of the winder need to go by before one frame has advanced and count those when winding. - You may want to write "1/100s" and "f/8 - f/11" on the camera to remind you of what the aperture settings and shutter speed are if you actually believe what the manual says they are. - You may want to write the approximate focus distances corresponding to each of the icons on the focus ring. I wrote my own focusing scale on the thing using a silver paint marker. - Use the light meter in a manual mode camera to give you an idea of what sort of lighting conditions are going to work with f/8 and 1/100s with the ISO of film you have in the thing. There's probably no point in walking around metering for every shot, but you should at least get some idea if your film is going to require direct sunlight, shade on a sunny day, work ok with overcast sky, or work inside in rooms with lots of of windows on sunny days. Even at ISO 3200, bright artificial office lighting probably won't be enough for indoor conditions. - If possible, try to shoot a whole roll of film in approximately the same lighting conditions so you can push/pull process the film to compensate for over/underexposure. For example, if you know that bright office lighting won't quite be enough but you want to try it anyway, shoot the whole roll under that lighting so you can push process the film (to get a higher effective ISO out of it). Overall I'd say, not bad for $30 if you want to be able to do some of the things that the lack of "idiot proofing" features allow and you want to recreate some lo-fi effects, but don't waste your money on the camera, film, and processing if you don't know what you're getting into. These things are also great for making your own modifications since the worst you can do is destroy the thing, losing $30. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 20, 2012 by Omega Man

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