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EBIKELING

EBIKELING Waterproof Ebike Conversion Kit for Electric Bike 700C Front or Rear Wheel Electric Bicycle Hub Motor Kit 1500W 1200W 750W 500W Electric Bike Conversion Kit

    • Based on 219 reviews
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Availability: Only 3 left in stock, order soon!
Fulfilled by EBIKELING
Arrives Nov 21 – Nov 25
Order within 12 hours and 30 minutes
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Size: Front


Style: 750w


Features

  • Easily convert your bicycle to an electric bike. Ebike Conversion Kit is ready to install with an aluminum double-walled rim and hub motor already attached. All you need to do is to transfer the original tire to the electric bike kit and enjoy your brand-new ebike!
  • Ebike Conversion Kit includes all necessary components for installation; the wheel hub motor, controller, display, throttle, brake levers, pedal-assist system, torque arm, and cable ties. Please, note that in this Electric Bike Kit, BATTERY & TIRE ARE NOT INCLUDED!
  • Upgrade your ebike with the LCD Display in the conversion kit. It shows all the essential information such as battery percentage, speed, total and single trip distance, wattage, PAS levels, and error codes for easier troubleshooting. Basically, it is your I in the tire!
  • Continue to pedal: Pedal Assist Sensor (PAS) allows you to ride your electric bike kit without a throttle response. You may operate your electric bicycle either way. Avoid uncomfortable wrist positions and simply pedal anytime, anywhere.
  • We offer a 1-year warranty on hub motors and batteries. All other components are under a 3-month warranty. We provide technical support and hassle-free returns, full refund, or replacements. We strive to ensure your satisfaction with our service and products. Note: Please ensure you select a specific variant from size and style. By default, the first variant of each option will be selected.

Bike Type: Electric Bike


Brand: EBIKELING


Wheel Size: 29 Inches


Frame Material: Aluminum, Carbon Steel, Alloy Steel


Suspension Type: Rear, Front, Dual


Special Feature: Digital Display


Size: Front


Brake Style: Works with Disc, V, Caliper, Cantilever


Item Weight: 17.2 Pounds


Voltage: 12 Volts


Brand: EBIKELING


Target Gender: Male


Bike Type: Electric Bike


Size: Front


Wheel Size: 29 Inches


Suspension Type: Rear, Front, Dual


Frame Material: Aluminum, Carbon Steel, Alloy Steel


Item Weight: 17.2 Pounds


Style: 750w


Brake Style: Works with Disc, V, Caliper, Cantilever


Special Feature: Digital Display


Voltage: 12 Volts


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Nov 21 – Nov 25

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Ongoing Review
Size: Front Style: 500w
In short, do not order the 700C front-motor unless you know beforehand, how you are going to deal with their thick axle. I have been using a bicycle as a primary means of transportation for nearly 40 years now and about 10 years ago, my knees told me that I was done riding without a motor. Commuting with a motorized bicycle to work downtown is like driving a convertible in a path dedicated to your own use with free parking when you get there. Very nice experience. This is my third bicycle motor. My previous two have been rear wheel Bionx motors. The last one, a D500, died on me; but so did the company itself, thus my purchasing this motor. I love the notion of buying a motor which does not limit me to a $1000 proprietary battery. I love the notion that the whole setup cost me about 1/3rd the cost. I rode it for the first time today and find that is nowhere near as responsive as the Bionx, however when weighed against the benefits above, I am quite happy. There is a 3 second delay when pedaling before the motor kicks in and 3 second delay after you stop pedaling before the motor turns off, so be sure to install the brake turn-off if you are going to rely mostly on pedal assist. The pedal assist works differently than it did on the Bionx. I was accustomed to setting 1 providing 25% assistance all the way up to 20mph and setting 4 providing 200% assistance up to 20mph. I generally stayed in setting 1 so that I could get some exercise and used the throttle to start up from a stop to save my knees. On this system however, setting 1 means both lower assistance as well as a lower top speed. If you want to go 20mph, you have no choice but to stay in setting 4 or 5. Not as much exercise, however at my age, my knees are not really complaining. There may be a setting to change this I have not yet encountered. This was my first trip (my commute is 10 miles each way). I uninstalled the PAS because I wanted to lock the battery to the bicycle frame. I have a folding Montague Navigator and the only bottle braze-on points are just above the pedals and I had to move the battery to a rear bag in order to install the PAS disk, however this meant I could not lock the battery to the bike. I found that PAS is hardly different at all to just using the throttle. While it is more natural for the foot to provide the power and the hand to not do so, I would prefer to lower the risk of theft. On setting 5, I found that the 13Ah Dolphin LG battery displayed 80% after 10 miles, 50% after the next 10 miles, and barely got me another 10 miles before conking out. The lower the battery % the lower my top speed. On setting 3, for the first 10 miles, the top speed was 17mph and battery still read 100% after that first 10 miles. at the end of the next 10 miles my top speed was 15mph and the battery read 75%. It came well packaged, but required a signature of someone over 21, so I had to keep a close eye on the UPS Follow My Delivery so that we would not miss each other a 2nd time. My one star off so far centers on the thick axle of the front-wheel version. Your front drop outs need to be at least 10mm to accommodate this axle, which is a bit large for a 700C front fork. I suspect they are using the same axle as their rear motor, where 10mm is usually fine. I have looked far and wide on-line and asked the local bike shop but, so far, every 700C front fork seems to have a 9mm drop. I have to either keep looking or return this motor or just grind down the axle. To be fair, my 2nd place choice, a Bafang model clearly stated that it required 10mm drop outs, so I am unclear as to who front-motor 700C wheel makers are selling to. I think 29" forks come with wider drop outs and I suspect that a 29" fork would install onto a 700c bike without a problem, especially if you are using disc brakes. Even if the drop outs were 15mm, since I would want to use two torque arms anyway, a couple of 5mm spacers may make it work. I have made eBikeling aware of this issue and they gave me no indication that it could or ever would be remedied. Their response: Unfortunately, we do not have such a chance. The rim is 18.8mm inside and 24.5mm outside. I am guessing that the 22mm in the description references the inside width where the bead goes, but I cannot measure that. My existing 622x18 rim is 18.5mm on the inside and 24mm on the outside. The inner most grove, where the rim tape goes, is 12mm. The thin rubber rim liner they provide is garbage, do not try using it as it will give you a flat tire. Within seconds of pumping up my tire to 100psi, it went flat and upon inspection, there was a smooth half circle cut out where the screw hole in the rim was and the rim rubber band provided was also cut. Fortunately I was half expecting that result and I had rim tape and a patch handy. I was curious. The only instructions in the box points you to website for instructions, but the website only shows three installations videos of the rear wheel and none for the front wheel. Fortunately, my bike has a mount for disk brakes as does this motor, so I knew which side was which so that the motor would move the bike forward, not backwards. If you look carefully at the information towards the bottom of the instructions page on their website, one of the photos and two of the plain sentences are actually links to PDF instruction files. I failed to noticed until they pointed this out to me. I did not own a crank puller tool or a bottom bracket tool to install the 2 PAS disks, so I had to place another Amazon order before I could continue. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K13N4S You might wonder why I am choosing front vs rear. A rear motor, in theory, makes the most sense, however I had constant problems with the excessive weight causing rim explosions, broken spokes, and eventually two prematurely dead motors. With a front motor, I am reducing the complexity of the setup and moving weight forward and removing weight from the somewhat fragile and expensive motor and removing weight from the rear spokes and allowing for the original spokes which never broke before I started this motor business. When I saw that it came with lights, I was picturing in my mind bright lights without their own batteries that were hooked up to the big motor battery so that I can stop the ritual of having to constantly recharge the batteries in my head/tail lights, but they are in fact an off-the-shelf $3 pack of 2 tiny LED lights with coin sized batteries (it does not mention a specific size). I doubt I would bother taking them out of the packaging. However I did find very bright front headlight here on Amazon that worked perfectly for my intended purpose and it plugs directly into the LCD display. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075K13N4S I already had a rear rack bag, so I used that to hold the battery and the controller (which must be close together as there is no extension cord for this connection). This way all the connections can be protected from rain. My previous Bionx motor stopped working about 20 minutes after it started raining, every single time. For my 2nd trip, I got rid of the battery bag and mounted the battery to my frame (after buying a new crankset gear to give me more clearance) and used zip ties to mount the controller to my rear rack and threaded the connectors thru an old large diameter bicycle tube to protect them from the rain and keep them together. The battery is a separate purchase from the same company and at the moment, they offer three different models for this 36V motor. This is the one I purchased (larger capacity and USB port). In retrospect, I would purchase the smaller battery for my particular frame. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NHN18V9 I also purchased two better quality torque arms as I read that the one provided may not be strong enough. https://smile.amazon.com/Grin-Technologies-Universal-Version-Electric/dp/B00K57N9II I installed it on a 2014 Folding Montague Navigator. It took a LOT longer than I anticipated. I received it May 4th and the first time I had it together enough to ride it was May 15th and the second time, after waiting for even more parts, was not until May 20th. I probably spent a good 10 hours in total on installation. But much of that was due to my using a folding Montague instead of a normal frame. But if I wanted a non-folding big wheel bike or a folding small wheel bike, then I probably would have just purchased an eBike. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 4, 2019 by CPAChicago
    • At 5000mi still works well, but some parts seem cheap, and the manual needs help
Size: Front Style: 500w
The motor hub and motor controller appear to be well-made. I like the included torque arm. Installation was straightforward. I have the 500w kit installed on 700x42c tires. Some of the parts are disappointing in their build quality. For instance, the thumb-lever to control the motor speed has a mold part-line right on the thumb pad, and the mold is not well aligned. While it's not particularly problematic, it feels and looks really cheap and has me wondering how soon I'm going to have to replace that piece. Also, the LCD display panel has a mounting clip that has to be stretched open to fit over the handle bars. There is an adapter to accommodate handlebars of a smaller diameter, but on my bike, the provided screws are too short to attach the clip with the adapter in place and the clip is too big to secure the LCD without the adapter in place. In any case, when trying to adjust the display later, part of the clip snapped off (I think the plastic is cheap), and the unit is now held in place on one side by friction. The customer service representative agreed to send me a new unit. Another disappointment is the user manual. The box arrives with a note saying to find installation instructions on the website. I found that fine, and installation was straightforward. However, there is no help for the motor controller and display. I figured that I would plug it in, and it would just work and be self evident what to do. (Apple seems to get away with this approach just fine.) When I flipped the switch on my (separately purchased) battery, nothing happened. No response. No lights or beeps. No nothing. I double-checked the installation instructions. I disassembled everything and reassembled everything; measured the battery voltage; re-crimped the connectors; pressed the buttons I could find, and still nothing. Disappointed, I tried calling the support number but didn't get an answer (it was late Friday afternoon in central Texas) and then sent a note to customer service. On Monday, the customer service agent wrote me back to suggest that I press and hold the "M" button on the Pedal Assist Sensor control for 6 seconds to turn the unit on. I could not find the user manual for the S830 LCD display on the eBikeling web site. (It turns out it is there, at the bottom of the installation page, but the website search tool did not turn it up.) I found it elsewhere in an online search. On the last page of that manual, there is there is this: "Turn on/off the LCD Panel: When the display panel is operating, long press 'M' and it will be turn off, otherwise it will be turned on." This really should be restated in a Quick Start section at the front "To power up your e-bike, switch on the battery, then press and hold the 'M' button if the display has not already lit up." Setup and installation aside, the kit is nice to use for commuting. There are a number of different ways to use the motor. I find the thumb-level to useful for navigating intersections and blind sections of trail. However, for long straights, the cruise-control feature is quite nice. One setting on the LCD allows you to monitor current draw, so with the cruise control set, you can contribute by pedaling and see how much assist you're getting (or how much current you're saving with your pedaling). One interesting quirk is that the LCD odometer only measures distance that the motor is energized. That means the motor's odometer is not a replacement for your regular cyclometer since the motor spins down when coasting. On a related note, I found that having the motor energized interfered with the signal from my wireless cyclometer. I ended up replacing it with a cyclometer with a wired sensor. **800-mile update** I am into my fifth week of commuting 35 miles (round trip) most days of the week and have put about 800 miles on my bike with this kit. So far it is holding up well, and I have a few observations: - I can cruise at about 25mph on a straight with the PAS set on 5. On certain downhill sections, I can touch 30mph. The same section in the other direction, I can go about 20mph. PAS level 4 is useful in school zones, where the speed limit is 20mph. I don't use the other settings. - The torque is pretty significant. At stop lights, I usually end up beating the first cars through the intersection once the light changes. There's a noticeable kick when I press the thumb lever, even at speed. It's fun! - There is a short lag between pressing the thumb controller and getting torque. I believe this is inherent in the design of any free-wheeling geared motor. By now I am used to it and have learned to time my accelerations, but it takes some getting used to, particularly around corners or when navigating bumps, curbs, etc. If you hit the brakes when the cruise control is set and immediately press the thumb lever again, you will have not quite a second's lag time before the torque kicks in again. - Setting the cruise control (a very useful feature!) requires a button press of about 2 seconds. If the road is bumpy, sometimes my finger will come off the button and the "cruise control" long button press will be interpreted as a "lower the PAS level" short button press. A minor irritation, but if the engineers at eBikeling are listening, then they should take note. - I predict that the mode of failure on this kit will be the rubber button covers on the controller. Those buttons (especially the down arrow and middle button) get a lot of use during my daily ride, and I'm concerned the rubber will tear and/or the switch underneath with stop responding. Because of the way it is connected to the LCD panel, The whole panel will need to be replaced when that happens. - I fitted a light (I recommend using a motor-cycle style light with its own switch; some even have horns integrated) and connected it directly to the battery's power cables. The eBikeling-provided connector is made by Julet, and Julet connectors (while high quality and waterproof, etc) are not available in the US for individual purchase. I could not find a light with a two-conductor Julet connector for sale anywhere. If you want to use that connection and control it through the eBikeling controller, you'll need to find another weatherproof connector at the local auto parts or home improvement store. In any case, I was never able to measure voltage at that cable, no matter what I did with the controller - Finally, and this is minor, the motor tends to make a fair bit of noise. In addition to the whine of the gear set, I notice when it's almost up to cruising speed, it starts to sound like my disc brakes are rubbing (sching-sching-sching), although the noise disappears immediately when I disengage the motor. It doesn't always make that noise either. I'm not on stealth missions, so it's really not an issue. **1600-mile update** [2100 miles on my cyclometer, 1600 miles on the eBikeling trip computer] The motor is still holding up well, and my initial worries about the build quality of the control buttons have abated somewhat. Two complaints have surfaced in colder weather: - The PAS control buttons are hard to use with cold weather gloves. Use of the cruise-control function is more or less a necessity on long commutes; mine is about an hour - (16 miles) each way. It is not feasible to hold the thumb lever for that long. The buttons are small enough that it is tricky to press just one through gloves that are warm enough in the winter. - Once the battery level gets to about 25-30%, the cruise control becomes very finicky about whether it wants to hold the speed. That is, it frequently shuts off, and use of the motor requires the thumb lever. I find this to be pretty annoying since this often happens on a hill when I need the boost the most. The battery tends to fade faster when the weather is colder, so this is also largely a cold-weather phenomenon. - Also related to the cruise control but not cold weather, it seems to be sensitive to bumps or vibrations. Sometimes when accelerating, if I hit a bump in the road, the cruise control shuts off. This typically happens when a red light has turned green, and with accelerating cars around me, I'd rather have a consistent boost. **5000-mile update** [5000 driven miles on the eBikeling trip computer, corresponding to something like 7000 miles traveled] This motor has been a workhorse and is still running solidly. I have to say that despite my initial assessment of the part quality, the only problem I've had was with the mounting bracket for the LCD display. Everything else has held up well, including the thumb switch I had such doubts about. - About a year ago, I opened up the hub to check the gear train inside and re-grease it if necessary, but it was in fine shape. - A few times now, I have had questions for the staff at eBikeling, and they have been really good about answering technical questions quickly. Most recently this was to check whether I could use a 48V battery to replace the 36V unit I originally installed but has lost capacity after 400 or so charging cycles. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2019 by Tim Diller

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