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Pro Marine Supplies

Promise Epoxy Resin Kit - Crystal Clear, UV Resistant, Self Leveling, Food Safe for Table Top, Arts & Crafts, Wood Casting, Jewelry Making, Use with Mica Powder, Silicone Molds, Alcohol Ink (1 Gallon)

    • Based on 32,549 reviews
Condition: New
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$58.99 Why this price?
Holiday Deal · 25% off was $78.97

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This item's return window has been extended for the holiday season: Returnable until Jan 31, 2025

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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by Amazon
Arrives Tuesday, Dec 31
Order within 15 hours and 25 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

Size: 1 Gal


Features

  • Easy Application Process - Enjoy the simplicity of a 1:1 mixing ratio with our epoxy resin kit, perfect for both beginners and experienced DIY enthusiasts. This user-friendly kit is a must-have addition to your resin art and craft projects.
  • Food-Safe Epoxy Resin - Our epoxy resin is food-safe when fully cured, making it an excellent choice for kitchen table tops, bar tops, and other food contact surfaces. Compatible with wood and metal, it ensures flawless clarity in your artistic ventures.
  • Self-Leveling Epoxy - Say goodbye to uneven pours with our self-leveling epoxy resin. Ideal for bartops, craft tables, countertop epoxy, and more, our resin guarantees a sleek, high-gloss finish.
  • Crystal-Clear Finish - Unleash your creativity with our epoxy resin's crystal-clear, high-gloss finish. Add a touch of sophistication to your tabletops, resin crafts, and more.
  • Water-Resistant and Durable - Protect your resin art and home decor from moisture damage with our water-resistant epoxy resin. Designed for daily use, it offers long-lasting protection and maintains the pristine condition of your projects.
  • American Made Quality - Promise Epoxy brings over 40 years of experience in epoxy resin craftsmanship, proudly based in the USA. Our focus on quality and formula perfection sets our products apart.

Brand: Promise Epoxy


Specific Uses For Product: Table Top, Craft, Woodworking, Wood, Furniture, Countertop


Material: Epoxy Resin


Compatible Material: Wood, Plastic


Item Form: Liquid


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 10 x 10 x 5 inches; 1 Pounds


Item model number ‏ : ‎ CECOMINOD097661


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ March 20, 2012


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Pro Marine Supplies


Best Sellers Rank: #595 in Industrial & Scientific (See Top 100 in Industrial & Scientific) #3 in Tile Epoxy Adhesives


#3 in Tile Epoxy Adhesives:


Customer Reviews: 4.4 4.4 out of 5 stars 32,549 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Tuesday, Dec 31

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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  • Financing through Apple Pay
Leasing options through Acima may also be available during checkout.

Learn more about financing & leasing here.

Similar Products

Top Amazon Reviews

    • Product Worked Great - WARNING LONG POST
Size: 2 Gal
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
Review Image by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
So I have been wanting Epoxy the top of my bar for some time. I have been saving ticket stubs to events I have attended for over 35 years. So, the last thing I wanted to do was screw this up. I read the reviews for LOTS of different products. What I found most helpful was reading about other peoples experiences with the product. Especially people who had never done this before. Therefore, I am going to go ahead and add to the product knowledge of this epoxy. First, I will say what many other posts said - FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. If you take short cut, you are going to pay the price. Your epoxy won't set or you will have other issues. So let's start with the mix. I did what everyone else had recommended. I affixed my ticket stubs to my bar counter tops. Now I should also mention this. I have a high counter top and a low counter top. I did a test run on my low counter top. On the lower counter top, I had taken CD jewel case covers (i had hundreds) and affixed them and did the same process. This was my test run. It did not turn out perfect. However, the imperfections were 100% MY FAULT. I read some 2 and 3 star ratings and looking back on them now, I would venture to say a lot of the screw ups I read were user error. Not trying to be hard on the DIY user, but much of the complaints I read were user screw ups. My test runs had issues because I didn't anticipate a lot of things. Now back to the mix. First, don't go cheap. Use a two new containers EVERY TIME you do a mix. My counter top was big - 2' x 10'. When I did my first test, I did it with a quart plastic mixing container. That would have taken me all night. I quickly switched to a 5 quart bucket. Get the ones that have the ounces marked on the side. I mixed batches 64 oz at a time. I did just like it said. Mix for 5 minutes and then transfer to a second - clean container and mix for 3 minutes. I just used Alexa for this part. About the mixing - this stuff is hard to mix together. I did my first batch or two with a paint stick. Eight minutes of that is brutal. I read a review with a guy who had used a paddle paint mixer on a drill. So, I decided to give it a try. First time, I screwed up. I thought use a high speed - full trigger - and get it mixed good. That was stupid. Just creates one big air bubble - actually thousands that make the mix look like milk. i was able to use a heat gun to get the bubble out. However, it took forever!!!! Second time, I just pulled the trigger until the paddle started spinning - lowest setting possible. I just moved it around and reversed the paddle every couple of minutes. Worked great. I don't think it came out with any more bubbles and they came out easily. Pouring the mixture was something most people didn't really talk about. When you do your seal coat, you can move it around with a blade. Be gentle or you will create valleys. Now on the flood coat, no one ever said to move the product around. The indication is that it is self-leveling. I would say that is accurate to a point. If you just pour it and let it run, it is going to stay really thick - between 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch. I didn't want it that thick. So, just like the seal coat, I moved it around again with a blade. I just used a 6 inch putty knife. This stuff is STICKY. I bought a 40 pack of rags from Home Depot and a gallon of denatured alcohol. I used this stuff a lot to wipe things off and clean up my putty knife. Once I poured out all the product on the bar top, I just worked it around making sure I got it up tight in the corners. I does self-level and it was just a thinner coat than the 1/2 inch. I used a heat gun to get out bubbles once I poured the epoxy out. I liked the gun because mine has a fan, think hairdryer, and covered more area. The bubbles come right out. It was a very easy process. However, don't do it once and leave it. You will get sneaky ones that creep up out of no where. I went back and checked it every 30 minutes for the first two hours of dry time. Ok, last couple of items. First, temperature - I kept the temp in my basement between 70 & 75 the entire time. Do what they say and don't let it go below 70. This will screw with the curing process. The final thing I would say is this. Once you have mixed it, the consistency is like thick honey. My bar is 3/4 inch laminated oak plywood. I have taken a piece of 1"x3" and made a half inch dado cut and used this trim piece to cover the edge of the ply wood. It fit really snug. I thought there was no way this was going to seep in, behind, down, and then back out of that piece of trim. Well, it did in a couple of places. if I was doing this again, I would run a bead of caulk on the under side of the bar to prevent those drips from happening. I was able to wipe it all up and keep the underside wiped down, but I had to do this for like two hours until the product got thick enough it no longer seeped out. Ok, sorry this is so long. But, i found the long review really helpful as I planned my project. I used two of the two gallon kits to do my upper and lower bar. Keep your environment as dust free as possible. Little threads and dust particles will get on the top and there is nothing you can do. This includes shutting heat vents in ceiling that are close to bar (learned that on my lower top.) . Final comment - TAKE YOUR TIME. This is not a go fast process. You have to be willing to go slow and be patient. I included a couple of pictures of the finished product. Love the way it turned out. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 23, 2020 by Daniel Chad Ryerson Daniel Chad Ryerson
    • Amazing and beautiful for TUMBLERS
Size: 16 oz
Review Image by Kris Kris
I have tried sooo many resins. And this is one of the best I have used. Sometimes you needs to manipulate others to get it to work and it’s hit or miss with the dimples and such but I can say this resin has not given any issues . No fisheyes or dimples and mixes great. Part a is a bit thick but it melts in and mixes up lovely. The bubbles either go away or can easily be removed with heat gun. There is a little bit of a smell but nothing like some I have tried. It cures in the right amount of time. the work time is reasonable you get a good amount of product for the $. Overall no complaints this is a great resin and cannot recommend enough if searching for resin for tumblers ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on December 9, 2024 by Kris Kris
    • Hard finish, Crystal clear, great product for bar top
Size: 1 Gal
Review Image by soundsorcerer soundsorcerer
This product was used to cover a live edge bar top for my home bar. Overall the product was easy to work with and if you have done this type of pour finish before, nothing here will surprise you. It is a little more expensive than most but the results were outstanding. I did 5 pours and the finish was clear with no yellowing or hazing. I took the advise of some of the commenters and read the directions carefully and followed them to a “t”. I did this project over the winter to I cranked my heater in the shop to maintain 76 degrees because the instructions stated it need 75 or above to cure properly. FYI curing time for me was about 8 hours to the point it was no longer settling (hardened) and 24 hours to me hard. I had to wait 72 hours before I could sand (2000 grit) for following coats. I opted not to pour subsequent coats at 12 hours (sanding not needed per instructions) because in the past I would sometimes get light hazing with other products. I used a heat gun on low to deal with the bubbles and that worked like a charm....plumbers tourch works well too...but I ran out of gas midway so went with he heat gun. Don’t forget to do a seal coat on your top before you do the first pours. Also this stuff will find every crack and opening in your wood so expect some leakage and run off....I put cheap painters plastic tarps on the floor and over my saw horses and that worked perfect. Take time to seal up any through cracks or opening because it will run out and you will never get the top smooth. I proprably could have done better with more pours but given it is a bar top, at some point I will need to refinish (stuff is hard so maybe a while!) so I can address that then. 1. Read directions....follow them 2. Prep your surface. Make it as smooth and uniformally flat as possible 3. Seal the wood with a light coat of polyurethane and be sure to sand before you pour 4. Seal any cracks or holes from botom 5. Use tack rag to remove any dust or dirt prior to each pour 6. Use heat gun or plumbers tourch to remove bubbles 7. Tarp floor and anything else you don’t want this stuff to stick too 8. Buy disposable plastic mixing cups and flat stirring sticks...you will need one set for each pour you can not use again 9. Buy and be use the yellow plastic spreaders since you will need this to move the product around 10. Be sure to do this in an area that is bug or dust free ( as humanly possible ). You will be surprised how much crap will somehow make it to your top after you pour! 11. Pack patience. Take your time and you will be rewarded ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on March 14, 2018 by soundsorcerer soundsorcerer
    • Sets up faster then expected.
Size: 2 Gal
Longer then expected. But worked for what i wanted. I just use this on plywood. Was planning to do this in sections but the directions said I had 30 to 40 minutes. I was almost done and was about 25 minutes into it when it gelled up. I was hoping to redo a few spots with what was left but ended up having to waste about 1/3 rd gallon. Didn't expect that. Also, directio s said no power tools for mixing. Not sure why but it was easy enough to mix by hand. This product turned very cloudy while mixing but as I kept going it cleared up again. After the pour I had a extremely large amount of air bubbles. Last epoxy I bought I mixed with power drill and had very few bubbles. On the plus side, worked very well. Did as I wanted and expected. Bubbles were not a problem since this was the first coat and won't be seen. The next day the epoxy was well setup and I sanded for the next coat. Just put the next coat on. Won't know til tomorrow how it comes out. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 28, 2024 by Christina P

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