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Best Choice Products 80in Outdoor Wooden Chicken Coop Multi-Level Hen House, Poultry Cage w/Ramps, Run, Nesting Box, Wire Fence, 3 Access Areas

    • Based on 2,488 reviews
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Features

  • COMFORTABLE LIVING SPACE: This multi-level coop has ramp access to the second level and a run to hold between 3-5 chickens, depending on size and breed
  • SECURE HOUSING: Galvanized wire walls and a series of locks on each access point keep your household animals inside, and the predators out
  • DURABLE MATERIALS: Made of 100% natural fir wood and galvanized wire mesh for a sturdy construction that will last in all weather conditions
  • EASY TO CLEAN: Comes with a removable bottom sliding tray for easy cleaning, and a metal wire fencing for ventilation. Easily reach all areas of the coop with 3 access areas
  • LARGE NESTING BOX: This deluxe chicken coop comes with a built-in nesting box and removable divider. Keep nesting box open or closed with a lid cover; OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 79.25"(L) x 26.5"(W) x 51.5"(H); Nesting Box Weight Capacity: 20lbs.; Slide-Out Tray Weight Capacity: 44lbs.; Items contained in 2 separate boxes. Transportation times may vary per box.

Brand: Best Choice Products


Target Species: Chicken


Product Dimensions: 79.5"L x 26.5"W x 51.5"H


Gap Size: 24 months


Material: Wood Metal


Product Dimensions: 79.5 x 26.5 x 51.5 inches


Item Weight: 50 pounds


Manufacturer: Best Choice Products


Country of Origin: China


Item model number: SKY2416


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No


Frequently asked questions

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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Well WOrkth the Price
I purchased this coop as a place to transition my 3-week old hens to a lager enclosure before putting them in the big-girl coop. The package arrived early and took about an hour to assemble by myself. The directions lack a little detail, but with some common sense it is not too bad to figure out. The directions note the only tools needed are a screwdriver and wrench, but an electric screwdriver or drill are a big help. Not sure I could have tightened all those screws by hand. I love just about everything with this coop, from the simple assembly, sturdy construction, etc. I was especially impressed with the design of the lid on the nesting box as it tucks under the wall to shed water (a design flaw in other high-end coops) and even included a prop to hold the nesting box lid open. As much as I am impressed with this coop there were a few things that would have made it better. The slide bolts (locks) are kinda cheap (but they work). I really would have liked a lock on the lid for the nesting box. I think a big enough bird could lift it open and I imagine a racoon or opossum could probably figure it out too (but an easy fix, just by a hook and eyebolt latch). I think my biggest issue is access to the bottom section of the coop, there is a door in the corner, but it is fairly small and makes it difficult to reach to the back of the pen (which is where I like to place the food and water). If you build this as a permanent structure on the ground or onto something like a piece of plywood, it will also make any cleaning of the pen difficult. I currently have it on a tarp on my porch, so all I have to do is lift it up and remove the tarp to clean the pen. Would love to have seen an additional access door. With that being said, if I needed a another small coop I wouldn't hesitate buying this one again. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2020 by Chris U.
    • Adorable but not designed for functionality.
Review Image by That's Bethany with a B! That's Bethany with a B!
Review Image by That's Bethany with a B! That's Bethany with a B!
Review Image by That's Bethany with a B! That's Bethany with a B!
Update: After actually using the coop for a while noticed a few more flaws in design and would hope that the manufacturer looks at suggestions and find solutions. One is because the wood is soft it’s difficult to install feeding dishes using hooks because they’re too heavy and pull through. The coop is too narrow to place the feeders anywhere in the pass for the chickens to walk inside. The back area where I tried placing their food is difficult to access because the access door is at the opposite end, so it requires a contortionist to access. Then I tried pulling out the tray underneath the roosting area and that is extremely inconvenient. Because yet again, the door that opens is on the wrong side. I ended up moving the feeders outside underneath the nesting box to protect it from elements and the chickens have learned to go and find their food and water there. Not sure what I will do for winter time. I added 4” Pavers all along the outside to anchor the coop in place because my dog was able to easily shove it aside out of curiosity. I also wish they’d used actual chicken wire and a smaller diameter because now I’m dealing with a little prairie mouse that is going in to the bottom area to forage. Instructions suck as they usually do. Easier to Compare the numbers on instruction sheet for pics of parts to figure out which to use. Cedar is soft wood, so have someone help you square off corners and hold in place as you insert screws. The one problem we did have was the cover to the nesting box wouldn't close Because of hinge placement according to instructions. I unscrewed them and moved them to the edge of wood. Otherwise, there would be 3 to 4 inch gap between the hinge and the coop itself allowing for easy access by predators get inside. Also intended on adding a latch hook and eye for added security against animals. The other issue with nesting box is it has slats that allow bedding and stuff to fall straight to ground. We will have to look for a solid tray or cardboard to Insert before adding nesting material or it will just fall through the slats. Over all we were pleased with the coop. It was smaller than expected but fits perfectly. Will probably look into insulation and tarp to cover over for frigid damp Chicago days. Recommended for buying. Lots of screws. A friend helps assemble in half the time. Instruction could be more thorough. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on July 11, 2018 by That's Bethany with a B! That's Bethany with a B!
    • Needs some modifications
Review Image by totallyfrozen totallyfrozen
UPDATE: after approximately a month of use, I want to encourage you to use longer screws on the interior hen house door. With repeated use (daily opening and closing), the tiny screws attaching the handle bar to the door work loose and fall out. Not only does that make it more difficult to open the door for your birds, but if they see the little screws on the ground before you do, they’ll eat them. Sharp, wood screws in your chicken’s belly. Not good. Get longer screws and consider using a dab of glue on them too. ORIGINAL REVIEW: I’ve assembled LOTS of furniture. In fact, I used to work at a furniture store doing just that. The vast majority of the time, the instruction sheets were so poorly drawn and written in confusing language that we’d throw them away and assemble the furniture simply from experience. That’s fine for guys with experience. For those without, the instruction sheet and make or break the enjoyment of assembling a piece. The instruction sheet that comes with this coop is one of the best that I’ve seen. The drawings are detailed enough for you to be able to determine which piece and which side of the piece you’re looking at. Assembly took me around 30 minutes in a cramped space. The instruction sheet is 5 stars. The coop is made of fir. Cedar causes respiratory problems in chickens so it isn’t used. The wood in this kit is lightly stained a cedar red, but it’s made of fir. The wood is very light weight and soft. That means you don’t need to drill pilot holes for the screws before you drive them in. Still, the factory put pilot holes in most pieces to guide assembly. LISTEN: the wood is very soft and porous, you absolutely MUST PAINT THIS before using it outside! This is in no way weather resistant! You MUST paint it and you must use a weatherproof paint or stain. I recommend oil-based paint. I also recommend a high quality outdoor paint like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin-Williams. We used an acrylic paint from Walmart and the wood soaked up the first 2 coats. The cheap Walmart paint is too thin. We used more and got poorer coverage than if we’d bought a quality paint. I highly recommend painting the pieces BEFORE you assemble it. If you don’t, it can be a paint to paint it thoroughly and neatly. Even with the 4 coats of cheap paint input on this, after the first rain, the wood started the buckle in some places. Don’t do what I did. Instead, use a good oil-based paint. Another thing I did which I recommend is getting a clear, silicon caulk and caulking around the edges of the roof pieces to prevent rain penetration. The hardware leaves something to be desired. It’s adequate to assemble the building and hold it together, but it’s not robust. You’ll want to head to the hardware store for some upgrades on a few things. I’ll try to explain. LISTEN: This is NOT predator proof! It’s barely predator resistant. You MUST upgrade some hardware and make some modifications to make this predator proof. You’ll want a small roll of hardware cloth with 1/2” holes. You’ll need a staple gun and 1/2” staples. The floor of the egg box simply sits in the coop and any predator of moderate height and strength can push the floor of the egg box up and climb right inside the hen house. Some people have opted to screw the floor down, but then it cannot be removed for cleaning. I chose to cut a piece of hardware cloth roughly a foot and a half by two feet (you’ll have to measure) and staple it under the bottom. You may want to cut some strips of hardware cloth, crawl inside the coop (or have your kid do it) and staple it to the inside of the roof peak and edges to keep snakes from getting that way. The staples the factory uses to attached the hardware cloth to the frame are essentially cosmetic. They are very small and I wouldn’t trust them to hold the hardware cloth against a push from a raccoon or opossum. Before you assemble it, get your staple gun and drive 1/2” staples around all the hardware cloth. Another potential predator problem is tunneling under the edge of the coop. I’ve even heard horror stories of stronger predators lifting the edge of the coop (it’s very lightweight). To combat this, I got 6 L brackets. I screwed them to the 4 corners and 2 in the middle of the coop so that the L went under the edge to the outside. Then I placed garden pavers around the perimeter of the coop. That keeps predators from digging under the edge or tipping the coop since the pavers are holding the L brackets down. Also, the latches are comical in my opinion, and the coop comes with no door handles. At the hardware store, get 3 4” sash lift handles (drawer handles). You’ll want to attach one to the coop gate, one to the hen house door, and one to the litter pan. I also recommend getting 3 small hasp sets. The coop comes with some very small and wonky slide locks. I put the hasps at the coop door, the hen house door, and one on the egg box. Then you’ll have the option of locking them with carabiners or some other 2-step lock like a raccoon lock. I’d say this coop kit has “good bones”, but you do need to paint it and make a few upgrades in hardware and predator proofing. This coop is small so it’s ideal for bantam sized chickens. It’ll house 4 bantams comfortably if you allow them some free-range time outside the coop. If you plan to never let them out of the coop, I’d limit it to 2. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 26, 2021 by totallyfrozen totallyfrozen

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