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AW

AW Electric Bike Conversion Kit 48V 1000W 26" Rear Wheel Powerful Motor E-Bike Conversion Kit Dual Mode Controller W/LCD Display Twist Throttle PAS Ebike Wheel Kit

  • Based on 362 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: In Stock.
Fulfilled by AWInternational

Arrives Jan 5 – Jan 8
Order within 6 hours and 3 minutes
Available payment plans shown during checkout

Style: Rear


Features

  • [Powerful Brushless Motor]: 26" Rear Wheel Electric Bicycle Conversion Kit fits 26" bicycle frame with 5 5/16" rear dropout spacing, ideal for converting your conventional bicycle into an electric bike; Its powerful 1000W brushless and gearless hub motor offers smooth & low-noise operation up to a maximum riding speed of 45 km/h, suitable for daily commuting and short journeys
  • [Dual Mode Controller]: Its intelligent 48V/30A dual-mode controller enables the motor to work under both hall and non-hall modes, effectively extending its service life. If the electric components break down, the motor will still be able to function in non-hall mode
  • [Pedal Assist System]: Features intelligent PAS which senses your pedal cadence and allows you to ride comfortably without pressing on the handlebar throttles, avoiding uncomfortable wrist positions and reducing fatigue for a long-distance journey
  • [Informative & Safe]: Equipped with an informative LCD panel for displaying information such as PAS level, battery voltage, mileage, time, etc., allowing you to monitor your ride real-time, along with convenient brake levers for cutting off the power and braking, ensuring a safe ride
  • [Durable]: Awarded CE certification for safety and quality assurance, it is made of a strong aluminum alloy frame supporting weights of up to 220 Lbs effortlessly, while its gearless and chainless drivetrain eliminates friction

Brand: AW


Material: Aluminum


Color: Rear


Brake Style: Disc


Bike Type: Electric Bike, commuting_bike


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No


Product Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 25.2 x 25.2 x 2 inches; 26 Pounds


Date First Available ‏ : ‎ November 27, 2014


Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ AW


Country of Origin ‏ : ‎ China


Best Sellers Rank: #184,830 in Sports & Outdoors (See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors) #3,623 in Bike Components & Parts


#3,623 in Bike Components & Parts:


Customer Reviews: 4.1 4.1 out of 5 stars 362 ratings


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Jan 5 – Jan 8

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • Works great! Exactly as expected!
Style: Rear
3250 mile update 9/16/20: Still running awesome. No reduction in motor performance. Bike in great shape. Battery is definitely losing life and going to have to replace that soon. You lose a lot of battery life as the weather gets colder. Last winter the range decreased by ~40% on cold days but then went back up as things warmed back up toward spring+summer. Now getting into fall though the range is noticeably lower and I don't think it will have enough juice to get me to work during the winter. At ~2900 miles the battery stopped working after a bump. I opened it up and found a connection had rusted through from water getting inside (oops). I re-soldered the connection and it worked great. 500 mile update 5/22/19: Everything is awesome! No noticeable changes after 500 miles of wear. The bike runs great in the rain. No problems yet despite several rather wet rides - although the water spray at 30mph is certainly uncomfortable. I have electric tape on the connections but that is it for waterproofing. On a warm day when I am not wearing a jacket cruising speed on flat ground is actually 30.5mph - a bit faster than the 28.5 while wearing a jacket. No more close calls with cars since the last update now that I know what to watch out for. 135 miles ridden 4/25/19: I absolutely love this thing! I really just figured this out as I went along based only on info I could find online. I don't know anybody else with an Ebike but I imagine after this I will be able to convince some friends+family. Here are my thoughts: - I bought a conversion bike and battery on Amazon (listed below), and including the kit the entire setup was just almost exactly $1000. - It took about 8 hours to assemble everything, including assembling the bike I bought, mostly because I had no idea what I was doing and have no real handyman experience. If I had to do it again it would probably only take 3 hours or less. - I did not install the PAS or the brakes that come with the bike with safety motor shutoff. The throttle is very easy to use and I don't have any problem letting go of the throttle to use the brakes that came with the bike. - The motor connectors and everything with the kit were extremely easy to connect and intuitive, although the instructions are pretty bad. I figured it out mostly without them. The only problem I had was the connector to the rear motor. I apparently didn't connect it tight enough the first time and it burnt out the connector after only a few minutes (!!). Amazon sent a replacement no problem. Second time through I connected it very tightly and secured it with electric tape and now it works great! - Full throttle on flat ground with no wind will go about 28.5 mph (I am 175lbs). While pedaling hard I can get that up to ~33mph or so but honestly at that point I can't pedal my feet much faster. A good middle ground is to stay around 20mph and then pedal comfortably at the same intensity I do when cruising at 12mph on a regular bike. This extends the battery life, gives me a bit of a workout, and keeps me going at a reasonable speed. - Battery lasts about 20 miles on flat ground full speed without me pedaling, or if I bike slower and pedal more it lasts way longer and I could probably get it up to 40-50 miles. My ride to work is 9 miles with a 750 ft elevation gain and over 25 stoplights. If I pedal some but not enough to break a sweat I will use about half the battery on the ride. - The bike I bought was a bit small for the conversion, and the suspension attaches right through the center of the frame taking up all the space there (the bike picture on Amazon shows WAY more space in the center of the frame than I got). This made me have to attach the battery on the underside of the frame, and the controller above the frame right below my seat. This isn't a huge problem, but it does mean that when I go over a large bump the front suspension allows my front tire to brush against the battery, and since the controller is attached under my seat I am unable to modify my seat height easily. The seat height is not a problem since it is already set where I like it. The front tire brushing against the battery case is annoying. Currently I put tape there to absorb the scraping so the plastic of the battery doesn't get damaged. Not a huge issue but worth looking into a larger bike for (Note later I taped a piece of rubber on the front of the battery and that is working much better and not getting worn out quickly like the tape was) - Cars don't expect you to be going as fast as this bike can go. If I am riding in the bike lane, a car is very likely to make a right turn in front of me anytime. Be aware and watch for this to happen - they can't see you well and are not expecting you to be going the speed you are. Get good lights and increase your visibility. - That being said, this thing is AMAZING in the city. I can easily keep up with traffic in downtown Salt Lake City, which feels safer than being passed all the time. If needed I feel much more comfortable taking a lane of traffic since I am able to go reasonable speeds. Hills are super easy - including very steep ones. Getting going from a stop is no longer annoying like it is on a regular bike. - I bought a Torque Arm based on what I had read online, but couldn't figure out how to install it on the bike I bought, and honestly the bike is built solid enough that I don't think I need it. 135 miles so far without a problem and no visible bending or stressing of the rear forks. - The bike I got came with disk brakes. These have really good stopping power, although if I brake too hard my back tire locks up and starts sliding out from under me. It's a bit scary to have to slam the brakes at 28mph on a bike and start sliding, but even though I would not consider myself a great biker it was pretty easy to get back under control and still maneuver enough to avoid the car turning in front of me. Learning what to watch out for and to bike a bit more carefully :P Conversion bike: 2020 Gravity FSX 1.0 Dual Full Suspension Mountain Bike with Disc Brakes, Shimano Shifting (White, 17in) Battery: Joyisi Ebike Battery 48V 13AH / 36V 15AH Lithium ion Battery with Charger, USB Port, Electric Bike Battery for 1000W / 500W Bike Motor (Black) Lights: HeroBeam Bike Lights Double Set - The Ultimate Lighting and Safety Pack of Super Bright Front Bicycle Lights, Tail Lights and Wheel Lights - 5 Year Warranty ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 25, 2019 by James Richards

  • Excellent DIY ebike conversion kit.
Style: Rear
The first motor from this manufacturer that I ordered 6 years ago was through Walmart It's the exact same kit and around the same price, but it took two weeks to arrive from Walmart. I ordered this on Thursday with an expected delivery of next Thursday through Monday (a week to 10 day delivery). It just arrived on Sunday only 4 days after I ordered it, which isn't actually accurate because I ordered it late on Thursday night so 3 days and a few hours. Now, the product: I am completely satisfied with this e-bike rear hub motor. I'm replacing it because the previous one burned up in a house fire, bicycle and all. I weigh in around 135 to 145 lbs and with a 1000 watt 20 Ahr battery my bike will maintain 28 to 30 MPH for a good sustained 10 minutes. After that it slows to about 26 - 28 MPH and keeps that speed for 30 minutes or so. Running at 20MPH (maximum legal speed in many states) with a 1000W, 20Ahr battery, pulling a half loaded cargo trailer my one way range is about 30 miles or almost 40 miles without the trailer and about 2 hours service on one 20 Ahr battery charge. Packaging is perfect and meant to withstand shipping gorillas from China to the US. > Installation is not difficult and takes few tools and a couple of hours if you are fussy about how neat and professional you want it to look. > An allan wrench tool set, an adjustable wrench for the axil nuts, a #2 Phillips screwdriver, and some way to neatly trim the excess wire ties is about all the tools necessary for the completed project. > I recommend you buy a few extra zip ties, maybe even a pack of "sticky backed" Velcro strips. > The tire comes mounted to the rim but it may need inflating. > The Peddle Assist sensor mounts inside of the left peddle. Most peddle cranks are meant to be removed using a specialized tool, but you can use a wheel/gear puller on some cranks. Otherwise find a friendly bike shop that will help you mount the sensor, or decide that you can live without the peddle assist function. The sensor's inner diameter is too big for some peddle cranks. All other throttle functions work fine without the PAS. > The instruction booklet for assembling the motor and controller and hooking up all the wires from the throttle and hand breaks is clear and concise and each wire connection has a unique shaped plug so they can't be confused and mis-connected or even reverse connected. > The instruction for setting up the LCD display might be a bit confusing but the illustrations help a lot. > The power wires to the fuse and to the battery are the only "splicing" necessary. As an electronic technician and marine systems installer I HIGHLY recommend using crimp connectors and NOT wire nuts. > A little less intuitive is removing the original handle bar ends. This is necessary to mount the throttle. You could leave the opposite handle in place but it's nice to have a matching set. There's several YouTube videos that show simple ways to remove them. Most just slip on (no screws) but they act like Chinese finger puzzles when you try pulling them off. > The only negative experience I have had with this kit is the controller. I tucked the controller away inside a panier bag on a back cargo rack. This limits the cooling air flow around the device and 7 of the nine MOS-FETs cooked themselves during the hot summer months. I ordered a $60 replacement from a motorized scooter supplier in CA that was rated at 1200watts with 12 driver FETs and ran the bike problem free for the remaining 5 years before the house fire. The 1000 watt controller works fine, just remember it gets hot and needs air flow to protect the electronics. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on June 10, 2024 by Paul Kelly

  • A pretty good ebike conversion kit
Style: Rear
I purchased this kit over others based on the positive reviews. I thought I would add a few details I found going through the install. 1. The directions are ok, but lacking some detail. You will need to read between the lines a bit to figure everything out. 2. There is no manual provided for the handlebar LCD display. There are a number of settings in the this display and there is no information provided on how to adjust the settings. I found a pdf manual for a very similar LCD by googling "EN06" and "sciwil". The settings appear to be the same. 3. One of the settings in my LCD was programmed incorrectly at the factory that caused the LCD speedometer to indicate twice my actual speed (checked with a cell phone app). I corrected it by doubling the P07 setting from 24 to 48. 4. I had some trouble mounting everything on my bike's handlebar. The brakes, throttle and LCD interfere somewhat with my existing thumb shifters. You may need to change your shifters to something that will work with these items. 5. I purchased a 48V 1000W battery to use with this kit. It seems to work ok, but the power seems a bit limited. There may be some settings I need to adjust to realize the full power of this setup. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 13, 2024 by Thomas E. Vickers

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