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AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control

  • Based on 3,480 reviews
Condition: New
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Availability: In Stock.
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Arrives Saturday, Feb 22
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Features

  • Equipped with an input for an optional remote level control, allowing for convenient and precise adjustment of audio levels.
  • Features a compact design, making it ideal for installations with limited space.
  • Two-channel active/speaker-level input accepting up to 400-watt signals.
  • 9.5V preamp outputs with level matching controls.
  • Active circuitry ensures improved sound quality without compromising bass response.
  • AccuBass processing corrects bass roll-off common in factory audio systems, giving your bass the right amount of boost.
  • Threshold and level controls for optimizing bass response.
  • Selectable GTO turn-on circuitry eliminates the need for a remote wire.

Description

Audio Control LC2i 2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system

Brand: Audio Control


Connectivity Technology: RCA


Controller Type: Push Button


Special Feature: AccuBASS


Compatible Devices: Factory audio systems, aftermarket processors and/or amplifiers


Connector Type: RCA


Audio Output Mode: Stereo


Surround Sound Channel Configuration: 2.0


Color: BLACK


Wattage: 4E+2


Product Dimensions: 1.5 x 3.25 x 6.5 inches


Item Weight: 15.5 ounces


Item model number: LC2I


Is Discontinued By Manufacturer: No


Connectivity technologies: RCA


Special features: AccuBASS


Other display features: Wireless


Color: BLACK


Department: AUDIO CONTROL


Manufacturer: Audio Control


Date First Available: November 17, 2010


Frequently asked questions

If you place your order now, the estimated arrival date for this product is: Saturday, Feb 22

Yes, absolutely! You may return this product for a full refund within 30 days of receiving it.

To initiate a return, please visit our Returns Center.

View our full returns policy here.

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Top Amazon Reviews


  • Worth the price.
Works just like I had expected. previously I used a non powered LOC, and it was obviously low quality. If i remember right it was like a 30 dollar random brand thing from best buy. alternator whine, speakers popped when system turned on, balance was way off, etc etc. every problem I experienced was gone as soon as this turned on. GTO (basically an automatic signal sense which turns this on as opposed to remote turn on) works perfectly for me. No delay or anything. which really isn't that awesome of a feature. but it did save me about 10 minutes of splicing my remote turn on for a third item (low and high amps and then this) Installed in a 2010 F-150 lariat with no navigation or premium sound. While it sounds good, I had no previous problems (that i could notice) with my Low hz being cut off. so I can't speak to its ability to eliminate that problem. This setup does however allow me to keep my factory steering column controls, sync, etc etc...which is great. Only con I really came across is the fact that it doesn't ever really tell you to install a fuse unless you pay special attention to the specifications listings which "recommends" you install a 1 amp fuse. And the only reason I knew to do this was because a previous powered LOC I had blew up because I overlooked the same detail. Not really a hardcore con to the product. Especially, since if you pay attention, the information is there. Just something to keep in mind. I installed with a 1/2 amp in line fuse rated at 12v, so far works fine, just didn't have immediate access to the 1 amp fuse so I figured I'd try this first. No harm in going on the conservative side. I suppose another thing to mention is the fact that it does not come with any wires or fuse holder or anything, so plan ahead and don't expect to just plug this in with included hardware. Most likely my next step will be to buy a equalizer to help balance out my highs (and possibly something for the lows too). this is just due to the fact that my truck has nothing except a rudimentary treble and bass adjustment. If your head unit has some more features this may be all you need, since the adjustments you make to the head unit still apply to any signal sent through the LOC. Last thing I'd like to leave you with, this thing really opens up your system (if your coming from a OEM factory head unit) to cranking the bass way the heck up. I ended up leaving all my gains neutral and turning the "accubass" adjust down to minimum. Someone with more beefy Subs than me (two 10" shallow mount pioneers) may have more success in cranking it up, but for me, it only drove my speakers to max way to early. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on August 22, 2015 by nicholas taylor

  • Easy to install and works great.
Style: Converter Product Packaging: Standard Packaging
This thing makes adding a subwoofer to a stock stereo super easy. Just make sure the speakers you are stealing signal from are full range. I added a Sundown 10 inch sub under my trucks back seat. With a Sundown SFB 1000-D Monoblock. Its so much base i have almost everything turned way down.
Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2025 by R. Gass

  • Installed in my 2023 Chrysler 300C.... WOW
Style: Converter Product Packaging: Standard Packaging
I don't write too many reviews on here, but I definitely need to write one for this converter. I installed a budget system in my 2023 Chrysler 300C. I picked up a set of cheap 12" Nakamichi Subwoofers from Woot, a Stinger 1500 watt Monoblock Amp, and a custom Chrysler 300 box from Ebay. I spliced into the factory subwoofer on the rear deck, for my signal. Once I was above 60% volume on my factory UConnect unit, I would notice that the subwoofers started sounded awful using a standard Line Output Converter. Sounded like the subs were blown, just really bad sound. The music would get louder, but the subwoofers I connected through a cheap line output converter would sound horrible above 60% volume. I bought this and installed it, and it completed changed the entire sound of my system. My system sounds 100% better, super clear, super loud, and it just thumps now at full volume. Absolutely 100% recommend this!!! ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on February 6, 2025 by Michael Phillips

  • **HOW TO SET UP YOUR LCi2**
Style: Converter Product Packaging: Standard Packaging
I bought this as part of my audio system install on my 2011 FORD F250. I needed a way to create a RCA input in my amp to supply my 12" sub. This takes any speaker input and converts it into a RCA signal you can control. This particular model converts a LEFT and RIGHT speaker input into a RCA output to feed a main amp for all your speakers and has a SUB only RCA output to feed into your sub amp. This works great if you want to keep your OEM stereo in the dash. The downside is you lose fade or balance by using only 1 RCA to feed your amp. They make a LC7i model that takes ALL your speaker inputs and transforms each channel into a signal to the amp so you can maintain all our fade/balance controls in the OEM head unit. I only required a output to feed my SUB amp so this was perfect. On my FORD I had to use both the rear speakers into the LC2i because the OEM sub feed wasn't a full spectrum signal and the front speakers are only high frequencies. HOW TO SET IT UP: Here is what I did to set the LC2i up correctly. First I had understand the controls. After fiddling around, it was clear Threshold is used to set the volume level on the head unit where the AccuBass correction curve on the LC2i kicks in. The AccuBass correction does not touch the signal below the threshold. It's a pretty smooth "kick-in" since it's slightly delayed and fades in, but you can tell. The way I set this was simple. I started playing the 50 Hz tone again, and then set the volume knob to where the bass falls off. I had the AccuBass setting (cover that in a sec) set to the middle. Then I turned on my multi meter to VAC and turned up the Threshold setting VERY slowly until I saw my multi meter reading jump back up. That's where the AccuBass will now kick in. That basically means that when I get to that volume, it will begin boosting bass to correct for the OEM bass reduction. Remember you should use 3/4 volume as a MAX for all your settings. This means your bass threshold may kick in around 1/2 or so depending on your car. Some cars don't have that problem in which case just leave those settings alone. The Accubass setting is how strong of a curve or correction to you want to apply to the bass above the threshold to send to the subwoofer. Rather than trust my ear, I set the volume at and adjusted the AccuBass setting until my meter read what I wanted it to at the point where it used to drop off. I also checked the input gain on the amp to make sure it was driving the sub around max Volts AC at 3/4 volume, which it was. This ended up with AccuBass being turned down from the default middle setting. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on April 21, 2016 by Heli Chief Heli Chief

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