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Aerotech

Two Bros. Repellent VERSAINSECT Age Model Rocket Kit Garden Sculpture Outdoor Decoration

    • Based on 5 reviews
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Features

  • Skill Level Pro
  • Length: 87"/220cm
  • Diameter: 2.6"/6.7 cm
  • Weight (without motor): 31oz/880g
  • Fins: 3
  • Recovery is on two big nylon parachutes
  • screw-on aluminum 29mm motor retainer
  • Launch Pad, Launch Controller, Motors, Starters, and Recovery Wadding are not included

Description

== Key Features == 2 nylon parachutes "G" powered Over 7 feet tall == Overview == For those who want to fly a really big rocket, the Mirage is it! Lift-offs are impressively slow and realistic when this 7 foot monster roars off the pad on ?ôG?ö power. Recovery is on two big nylon parachutes.?á Recommended RMS Motors: Motor?á?á?á?á ?áProj. Altitude (ft/m) F40-4W?á?á?á 650 / 200 F52-5T?á?á?á?á 650 / 200 G64-4W?á 1300 / 400 G71-4R?á?á 1300 / 400 Recommended SU Motors: Motor?á?á?á ?áProj. Altitude (ft/m) F50-4T?á?á?á 510 / 160 G38-4FJ?á 680 / 210 G40-4W?á 870 / 270 G77-4R?á?á 950 / 290 G79-4W?á 950 / 290 G80-4T?á?á 880 / 270 Specifications: Length: 87?ö/220 cm Diameter: 2.6?ö/6.7 cm Weight (without motor): 31oz/880gms Fins: 3AerotechPart ARO89019

Product Dimensions: 37.6 x 13.6 x 4.7 inches


Item Weight: 2.5 pounds


Manufacturer: Aerotech


Item model number: 89019


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Top Amazon Reviews

    • Excellent quality, easily customizable, and surprisingly easy to build for such a huge rocket.
Review Image by Amazon Customer Amazon Customer
Reviewed in the United States on March 27, 2022 by Amazon Customer Amazon Customer
    • Five Stars
Awesome rocket kit...This thing is HUGE!
Reviewed in the United States on August 30, 2015 by AZBOB
    • Slow liftoff, low altitude -- lots of enjoyment
I built this kit as my second foray into the mid-power rocketry arena. Like other Aerotech kits, the fin section is easily assembled with the fins snapping into AT's "Fin-Lok" fin mounting system. For those who don't like to rig a way to keep fins straight while glue or epoxy dries, this really is a nice time-saver and ensures a better finished product. The body tube is heavy wrapped paper/cardboard -- it's more solid than you might think, and finishes up well (especially if you take the time to fill in 8 feet of spiral gaps, which I didn't do). This project was purpose-built because with the lower-thrust F motors, it really lifts off slowly compared to other rockets, which makes for a fun display and good photo/video opportunities, as well as an overall jolt of self-satisfaction. The pre-slotted fin section of body tube in my kit was slightly defective due to a few bubbles in the wrapping. I'm guessing the glue globbed during construction and it didn't seat properly. I would have expected that to have been caught during QA inspection, but since I'm pretty sure Aerotech is run by a grand total of about 4 or 5 people, I'm not entirely surprised it went out. Phone tech support is pretty much non-existent, and email takes a few days, but I did get a new tube about a week and a half later at their expense, and a few additional questions answered along the way. My finished stock kit weighs in at 2 lbs 6.5 oz (1100+ grams) with no motor installed, which is slightly heavier than Aerotech says (880g), but I put on 2-3 coats of metallic enamel spray paint and 2 coats of spray lacquer (looks great!) and used epoxy in a few strategic places in addition to the CA glue. After getting 2/3 of the way done, I decided I wanted it to be even taller, and built an additional 12" section of body tube plus a 6-inch coupler section converted into a payload/electronics bay (for an altimeter for now at least). That sub-project turned out perfectly, and I'm itching to get my altimeter airborne. Using nylon screws, that payload bay can be installed just below the nose cone, or just below the top body tube (which would be optimal for dual-deployment). In order to ensure the flightworthiness of my kit, I used an F40W with 4s delay for my first launch. The first igniter just chuffed (didn't ignite the propellant) but the second ignited the propellant VERY slowly. The Mirage lifted off ever so slowly and went about 400 feet up. Unfortunately, either that casing wasn't sealed well enough (did I forget an O-ring in that reload?) or the ejection charge was weak, or that baffle kept the full pressure from popping the top section... either way, separation didn't happen until about 40' above ground level. Neither parachute deployed, and it landed pretty hard. Repairs are under way and it'll fly again soon! Pros: - Durable construction and design. Despite hard first landing and a small crack in one fin, it'll be easy to repair and fly again. This is a kit I plan to keep flying. - Looks awesome -- tall, impressive, like you really own the place when you carry it to the pad with the necessary 3-man "launch crew" to get it on the rod. :) - Very easy to build. Took me about a month, but I spend lots of time on the details. You could put it together in 2-3 evenings if you really wanted. - This kit can easily be modified to allow for dual-deployment electronics (will need to buy or build an additional payload kit and NOT install the thrust ring on the motor mount tube, etc.). - 2.6" is common among other kit makers like LOC, so you can get other parts like bulkheads easily if you can't find the ones from Aerotech. Cons: - Directions aren't bad, but they could still be a bit better. If you've never built a mid-power rocket, it may confuse you a bit on a few stages. - I'm still not convinced both parachutes will deploy with this design. Mine definitely didn't on launch #1, and others have had similar issues. - The included shock cords are a joke. That springy stuff belongs in your underwear or sweat pants, never in a rocket with a 29mm motor in it. - Includes 2 launch lugs. For a rocket this size, it should really have 3, and it /really/ should have rail buttons instead to ensure stability off the pad. Pretty much every launch club has 10-10 rails now, and you should be using rail buttons. Do not try to launch this off a 3-foot (1/4") rod, or you risk it not being stable first. Minimum 4-foot and 5-foot would be even better. - It goes with the territory on such a tall rocket, but if you permanently install the nose cone in the top body tube according to the printed directions, that tube will then be too long to fit in a standard size car trunk. If you have a big truck, go for it, but if you plan to pack this into a car, consider using four 6-32 nylon screws instead so you can remove the nose cone for transport. Additional Thoughts and Advice: 1) Skip the F40 motor. First launch really needs to be on the next motor up at least. The F40 is just barely able to produce enough thrust to lift this stock kit off the pad unless it's unpainted/unfinished, and even less so if it's finished or epoxy'd. Using the 5:1 guideline (5 lbs of thrust for every pound of actual pad weight), it's right on the edge, so if anything isn't perfect (like your reload casing being well sealed), you won't get the full 15 lbs or so of thrust. Opt for at least an F52 or a G53FJ to start, or equivalent from Cesaroni. 2) Holy wars get started this way, but -- I built most of the kit using a high-quality medium-viscosity cyanoacrylate [CA] glue. If I were building it again, I would have used epoxy throughout. This kit could easily be used for an L1 certification on an 'H' motor if it was built a bit more sturdy. 3) Don't use the underwear waistband material they call shock cord. Invest in some tubular nylon or tubular kevlar (20' or so) and never look back, especially for the bottom parachute. 4) Some have suggested Z-folding or fanfolding the chutes together into the sustainer section and hoping they come out together. At the very least, I'd suggest a cross of masking/painter's tape over the end of the top section to prevent the chutes from being shoved up into the top by the ejection charge and for-sure never deploying. 5) I've heard from folks who fly the Mirage regularly that the cooling mesh included in this kit can get dirty over time and prevent the ejection charge from doing the necessary separation work after repeat launches. I can't say yet whether that's true... but if so, perhaps the advice of not installing the baffle and cooling mesh might be worth considering. 6) Use much longer lengths of tubular nylon or kevlar for shock cords -- the longer, the less likely it will ever "zipper" against the paper tube end, and certainly the more resistant it will be to the hot ejection gases. 7) Tie the two new shock cords (tubular nylon or kevlar that you bought separately) coming from the top and bottom sections together with 20+ feet of parachute cord -- long enough that the two sections can't bash into each other in mid-air during descent. This way, the entire rocket falls like an "H", and lets everything fall together. This has 2 advantages -- one being that the parts land much nearer each other, so less recovery hiking, and the second being that it will fall slightly faster and thus likely be nearer where you're standing. Adjust chute sizes for your landing site and wind conditions. Happy flying! EDIT: Since putting ~10 flights on this rocket (stock and extended lengths), I can now say with some accuracy that Z-folding the chutes together works better than having them try to deploy separately. Just before my L1 certification flight, I wanted to test-fly on a high G motor just to make sure things were loose enough (summer heat/humidity changes everything). Being in a hurry, I didn't Z-fold and packed each chute individually. At apogee ejection, neither chute opened far enough, and she came in hot and broke a fin off at the root edge (the actual plastic broke, not the epoxy used to attach it to the motor mount tube), with the top section spearing into the soft sod. 10 minutes with some 5-minute epoxy, and my L1 flight went ahead anyway, with the shock cords tied together in an "H" configuration and the chutes Z-folded together. ... show more
Reviewed in the United States on November 23, 2010 by HolyGrail

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